Wednesday, March 31, 2004

Thursday 1st April 2004, Day 201/366 - Napier, New Zealand to Home (Hopefully).

Right that's it. I've had enough. I'm booked on the 18.30 flight back home. I miss my old life. I'm just not cut out for this. I don't know who I was trying to kid. I'm an accountant not a traveller.
Wednesday 31st March 2004, Day 200/366 - Taupo, New Zealand to Napier, New Zealand.

Bloody computers, just typed loads and then deleted it.

Basically I wrote loads and it was really funny.

Milkmaid lives in Hamilton not Taupo. Gonna go round and milk the cows and get shat on when I get back to Matamata.

Staying in the hostel on my own was a bit weird.

Road to Napier was a bit dull. A green arthurs pass.

Napier was very small to be called a city. Only 50,000 people.

Drove up to Gisborne and back to Napier bit dull too.

Bought the weekly international express. Good to get an idea of what going on back home. The lady had never sold one before and thought that Des O Conner was dead, his baby is the lead story.

Parking meters. Not a rip off over here.

Cyclists. Why do they do it. What's the point in looking at scenery whilst blowing out of your arse? Why do it on your own? It must take days to get anywhere here.

Bloody computers.

Tuesday, March 30, 2004

Tuesday 30th March 2004, Day 199/366 - Matamata, New Zealand to Taupo, New Zealand.

The Tanners' is such a nice place to stay. I was made to feel totally at home and the setting is wonderful out with the sheep, cows, pigs, dogs and chucks. It's farming land and farmers everywhere.

The Kiwi's are so genuine. They are very engaging when you enter a shop and you don't feel it is put on. It can be quite disconcerting initially, but nice when you get used to it.

I took the 45 minute drive to Rotorua. I was surprised by the size of it in a nice way, there seemed lots to do so in my usual way I decided to give it a miss. I thought I could come back here on day trips from the Tanners house. So I headed to Taupo.

On the road down to Taupo I stopped at the Wai-o-Tapu Thermal Wonderland. It cost $18.50 for entry and I'd missed the daily geyser blowing which happens at 10.15. My first thought was that I was glad I hadn't had any breakfast as I was sure it would reappear from gagging at the horrible smell that goes with this place.

It takes a little while to get used to the smell of the place, but once you do it is a wonderous place to visit. There are craters caused by erosion from the boiling and acidic water. There are all types of colours and smells. The ground steams from the fumaroles. There are boiling mud pools that you get to walk over and through the hot steam vapours. It's weird going from the cold breeze of the day to the warm steam.





Scenes from the Wai-o-Taup Thermal Wonderland near Rotorua. All the colours don't come out and you're can't imagine the smell from it.


The view as you come down Highway 5 over a crest and you see Lake Taupo with the snow capped mountains in the background is again stunning. I checked into the YHA $20 and had a peak around Taupo. To be honest I wasn't totally enamoured with Taupo. It kind of feels like a poor mans Queenstown. It was a little too touristy for me. Don't get me wrong it is nice. Sorry Milkmaid, I'm sure it's lovely to live here.

I took a drive down to Turangi and back up the west side of Lake Taupo. It's a nice drive, but theres not too much to see.

Monday, March 29, 2004

Monday 29th March 2004, Day 198/366 - Cambridge, New Zealand to Matamata, New Zealand.

Took a trip into Hamilton to check it out. It's NZ's largest inland city and there were traffic jams trying to get in. Also heard on the radio that through the night the desert road had been closed due to snow so I guess I chose the right day to come up.

Hamilton would only be a small town if it was in the UK. It's a nice little place, but not stunning. It looked partly put together in that 70's style and as it's not on the backpackers route so it was quite hard to find internet and it was impossible to find cheap internet.

Hamilton didn't capture my imagination too much so I headed to Matamata to see what that was about before going off to meet the Tanners. Matamata is where Hobbiton was set and the town obviously plays on that. I thought $50 for the tour was a little excessive.

On leaving the town I saw an Animal Control van being driven by a man with a 'tache. I followed it and confronted the driver as he was selecting garlic. I was right it was Eric so we had a good chat, then the kids, in-laws and wife came home. I had planned to go on to Rotorua tonight, but was persuaded to stay, despite the fact they had a full house. Had a really nice night.
Sunday 28th March 2004, Day 197/366 - Interisland Ferry, New Zealand to Cambridge, New Zealand.

In truth the 3 hour crossing wasn't too bad. I think I chose a good night for it. There was still a fair bit of sway, but not as much as I'd been led to believe. I considered staying in Wellington to watch the cricket, but decided to keep driving in the direction of Hamilton to hit up with Briggsy and get drunk.

On getting to the North Island I straight away got the feeling that I was in a much busier place. It reminded me of leaving Maui and going to Oahu. I stopped off for some fuel and I picked up my first ever hitchhikers. I say picked them up. It was more they picked me up. By the time I had walked round to the pump they were getting in the back of my car. They were heading to Paraparaumu (Pram).

Bloo - 'So what do you do in Pram?'
Hitcher - 'Get drunk, get stoned and have sex.'
Other Hitcher - 'Yeah, everyone has sex with everyone else'
Hitcher - 'If you can get your hands on some NZ weed, it's the best'
Bloo - 'Sounds delightful.'

They ate all the crisps that I'm not allowed to eat. I then dropped them off at their houses and then they were gone. It's fair to say that Angel and Becka brightened up my life for 20 minutes, but it made me feel that the tour was back online.

I took Highway 1 (the Desert Road). I wish I could say that the scenery was nice, but it was dark and I couldn't see a thing. I tried to play the ABC game with myself, but after 200 kms I'd only got as far as 'I'.

I arrived in Cambridge at 7am having been up for 24 hours and driven 1000kms. So forgive me if I find a motel and get my head down.

I only managed a couple of hours sleep, then I watched the cricket, hockey and Stuart Little 2, before I'd driven myself to madness and had to get out. I'd arranged to meet Briggsy at 18.30 so I'd thought I'd have a walk around and check out the delights of Cambridge. There was plenty of things about, but it was all shut. It struck me that people are here because they live and work here and not like the South where they want to see it. I immediately missed the quietness, serenity and beauty of the South. Maybe I am just a simple boy! For the first time on the tour I really missed my home and my friends and family. They all seem so far away. It's like there on the other side of the world or something.

Whenever I'm with people my mind freezes up. I find it hard to focus on all the issues at hand, but as soon as I'm on my own my mind explodes and everything starts making sense again. That's why I value the quiet times on my own.

So much for that thought, Briggsy' just showed up. Okay so what do I know about Briggsy. Well I've never met her. She's Stan's mate, but I've not got to the bottom of how and why. She's in NZ for a year working with horses mainly. She's off home soon and that's probably about it. This could be weird.

Of course it wasn't. We have far more in common than that and in no time we were gassing like there was no tomorrow. In fact we spent so much time talking that the kitchen closed in the first place and we had no time to get more drinks. There was nothing else for it, but to change establishments. Especially as the 'Speights no mates' fella kept touching my arse. It was either that or he was trying to nick my wallet.

It was nice to put a voice to a name and face. We had a good chat about blogging, the BBC and life in general. Sorry to keep you out so late. Bloggers of the world unite and take over.
Saturday 27th March 2004, Day 196/366 - Methven, New Zealand to Christchurch, New Zealand to Interisland Ferry, New Zealand.

Had a nice chat with Susan from Boston, MA over breakfast. She was one of those masseus' who thought her hands had healing powers and she could feel energy. Interesting, but weird.

Hit the road again heading back to Christchurch. Managed to hit a bird and got blood all over the windscreen. Is it only me who feels really bad when this happens? I went back through Rakaia Gorge. It's amazing how different a place can look from the other direction, but it was still gorgeous. I took the road past Lakes Coleridge and Ida and then it was back in Chirstchurch having covered 700kms.

Liz and I had the lets just be 'friends' chat. I kind of knew it was coming, but it's still hard to take when it comes. We had tickets for the rugby in the evening, but I couldn't find any accomodation in Christchurch for that night so I took off north with the intention of staying in Kaikoura.

Then I sowed the seed in my head that I could head to the North Island and see some friendly faces (who I've never met before), watch some cricket and get the tour back on the road. Thought I should go back to my original plan, which was to not have a plan.

After a 3 hour drive I managed to jump on the 1st available ferry which was the 21.30 to Wellington. I was able to transfer my tickets, but I need to contact the broker about getting the money back for my missing passenger. Luckily I got to watch the Rugby on the ferry. Looks like I missed a good game.

It's fair to say that I'm leaving the South Island with some great memories and just a tinge of sadness. I'll be back to the South, but no plans eh!
Friday 26th March 2004, Day 195/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand to Methven, New Zealand.

Been driving myself mad asking myself question that I have no chance of answering, like how things are going to pan out for me when I get home. For some reason I don't feel in control of my own destiny, it's all reliant on so many other factors falling into place. Life seemed so simple not so long ago and that's what I need to get back to.

I took off with the intention of heading down to Ashburton, then Geraldine, before heading back up to Methven passing Mount Somers and Hutt. However on the road down to Ashburton I saw a sign for the Rakaia gorge and that rather took my interest so I took the 50kms detour. I wasn't too concerned about missing Ashburton as I'd already been through there on our first roadtrip and to be honest I don't remember anything about it so it can't be all that.

I was listening to 'The Best of Scotland'. It's a sad admission, but it would make my Mum proud. I do like 'Flower of Scotland' and 'Scotland the Brave'. 'Amazing Grace' played on the bagpipes is always very thought provoking for me, (people who know will understand). 'Mull of Kintyre' makes me want to slash my wrists. My only question mark was how on earth did 'Donald where's your troosers' and 'I belong to Glasgow' get on the 'Best of Scotland' tape. I guess that says alot about Scottish music.

Rakaia Gorge was absolutely gorgeous and it was nice to be off the tourist route. With Mount Hutt for a backdrop it made a stunning sight.



The Gorgeous Gorge


I carried on into the nice little village of Methven. It's basically a ski resort for Mount Hutt when the snow comes, which will be on it's way soon enough. I checked into the YHA for NZ$25 a night including breakfast and then headed out to Mount Somers and the site of Edorras from 'The Lord of the Rings'. Now I don't profess to be a 'Ringer' so I have no idea what I was looking at (as in which part of which movie it was in), but it was beautiful.




Edorras - Anybody recognise it


Followed the Inland scenic route (beautiful) south to Geraldine and then Winchester before turning back up towards Ashburton. Then I got a text from Mx who has just rocked back up in Christchurch and wanted to meet up. I headed back up to see her. It was nice to have her back on form and she'd settled back into the traveling life style. NZ does that to you. It was also nice to play a little role reversal and bend her ear (sorry).

Finally it was back to Methven for some sleep. It's fair to say that I've learnt some valuable lessons about myself recently, but I also temporarily lost sight of why I am traveling.
Thursday 25th March 2004, Day 194/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand.

Watched American History X and Stigmata. Cleaned the kitchen for about the millionth time. Just like my Dad.
Wednesday 24th March 2004, Day 193/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand.

Phoned some people about work. I think the work visa is going to be an issue. So I phoned the New Zealand Immigration Services and they said the easiest way would have been for me to apply for a working holiday visa before I left the UK, well cheers I knew that. The only thing I can do now is apply for a general work visa, but that they will only consider if I have a specific offer of work and the employer can prove that they advertised the job thoroughly and there were no Kiwi's capable of doing the job.

Sunday, March 28, 2004

This is very interesting! The next time you're washing your hands and
complain because the water temperature isn't just how you like it, think
about how things used to be. Here are some facts about the 1500s:

Most people got married in June because they took their yearly bath in May
and still smelled pretty good by June. However, they were starting to smell
so brides carried a bouquet of flowers to hide the body odour. Hence the
custom today of carrying a bouquet when getting married.

Baths consisted of a big tub filled with hot water. The man of the house had
the privilege of the nice clean water, then all the other sons and men, then
the women, and finally the children -- last of all the babies. By then the
water was so dirty you could actually lose someone in it.
Hence the saying, "Don't throw the baby out with the bath water,"

Houses had thatched roofs (thick straw piled high), with no wood underneath.
It was the only place for animals to get warm, so all the dogs, cats and
other small animals (mice, bugs) lived in the roof. When it rained it became
slippery and sometimes the animals would slip and
fall off the roof. Hence the saying, "It's raining cats and dogs."

There was nothing to stop things from falling into the house, which posed a
real problem in the bedroom where bugs and other droppings could really mess
up your nice clean bed. Hence, a bed with big posts and a sheet hung over
the top afforded some protection. That's how canopy beds came into
existence.

The floor was dirt. Only the wealthy had something other than dirt. Hence
the saying "dirt poor." The wealthy had slate floors that would get slippery
in the winter when wet, so they spread thresh (straw) on the floor to help
keep their footing. As the winter wore on, they kept
adding more thresh until when you opened the door it would all start
slipping outside. A piece of wood was placed in the entranceway. Hence the
saying a "thresh hold,"

In those old days, they cooked in the kitchen with a big kettle that always
hung over the fire. Every day they lit the fire and added things to the pot.
They ate mostly vegetables and did not get much meat. They would eat the
stew for dinner, leaving leftovers in the pot to get cold overnight and then
start over the next day. Sometimes the stew had food in it that had been
here for quite a while. Hence the rhyme, "Peas porridge hot, peas porridge
cold, peas porridge in the pot nine days old."

Sometimes they could obtain pork, which made them feel quite special. When
visitors came over, they would hang up their bacon to show off. It was a
sign of wealth that a man "could bring home the bacon." They would cut off a
little to share with guests and would all sit around and "chew the fat."

Those with money had plates made of pewter. Food with high acid content
caused some of the lead to leach onto the food, causing lead poisoning and
death. This happened most often with tomatoes, so for the next 400 years or
so, tomatoes were considered poisonous.

Bread was divided according to status. Workers got the burnt bottom of the
loaf, the family got the middle, and guests got the top, or "upper crust."

Lead cups were used to drink ale or whisky. The combination would sometimes
knock them out for a couple of days. Someone walking along the road would
take them for dead and prepare them for burial. They were laid out on the
kitchen table for a couple of days and the family would gather around and
eat and drink and wait and see if they would wake up. Hence the custom of
holding a "wake."

England is old and small and the local folks started running out of places
to bury people. So they would dig up coffins and would take the bones to a
"bone-house" and reuse the grave. When reopening these coffins, 1 out of 25
coffins were found to have scratch marks on the inside and they realized
they had been burying people alive. So they thought they would tie a string
on the wrist of the corpse, lead it through the coffin and up through the
ground and tie it to a bell. Someone would have to sit out in the graveyard
all night (the graveyard shift") to listen for the bell; thus, someone could
be "saved by the bell" or was considered a "dead ringer."

And that's the truth ... Now, whoever said that History was boring ! ! ! !
Educate someone ... Share these facts with a friend ...

Wednesday, March 24, 2004

Tuesday 23rd March 2004, Day 192/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand

Went for a run today. Not a long one, but it's a start. Played Mini golf and then went to the driving range. Haven't hit a golf ball in age and boy does it feel good smacking one around at the end of the day.

Monday, March 22, 2004

Monday 22nd March 2004, Day 191/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand

Bought a new pair trainers. Bought a ferry ticket. Bought a cap. Bought a ticket to the Rugby. Didn't find a job. I need one.

Got my trainers so that I can start running again. It's been a year since I did my last half marathon and I don't think that I have run since.

Can't believe how much it costs to take the ferry to the North Island NZ$178 and get this, that doesn't include a driver or any passengers. They are an additional NZ$52 each.



Gandalf - not really it's the Wizard of Christchurch, basically he stands around and talks about politics and complains about women




Another day ends in Christchurch

Sunday, March 21, 2004

Sunday 21st March 2004, Day 190/366 - Westport, New Zealand to Christchurch, New Zealand

Happy Mothers Day, Mum!

It had been our intention to head right up to the top of the west coast, but unfortunately it was raining the preverbal cats and dogs so we headed down the beautiful coast road and back through Arthurs Pass to Christchurch. The weather had cleared up so we had a much better view of Arthurs Pass. The end of a 1000 kms road trip.



Arthurs Pass




Arthurs Pass


Daylight saving ended today so I'm 12 hours behind now.




More stupid vanity plates
Saturday 20th March 2004, Day 189/366 - Franz Josef Glacier, New Zealand to Westport, New Zealand

Took the 1 1/2 return walk to the terminal face of the Franz Josef Glacier. You can walk on the glaciers, but you have to take a guided tour. I'm sure we'll come back to take the tour when the weather is better. We drove down to the view point overlooking Fox Glacier, but didn't do the walk as it was chucking it down.



Fox Glacier


There are over 60 glaciers in New Zealand and Fox and Franz Josef are the 2 most popular ones. They are unique in that nowhere else in the world, at this latitude, have glaciers advanced so close to the sea. They are basically massive rivers of ice that advance down the mountain at a rate of 1.5 metres per day. They are huge, natural wonders and have to be seen to be believed.

We headed back up the coast to Hokitika, to stop at Jacquie Grants Eco World to check out the sharks, eels, possums and very cool kiwis. Unfortunately didn't get any photos as they don't like lights, but it was cool to see them scurrying around.

Next was Punakaiki to see the Pancake Rocks and blowholes before ending up in Westport.



Pancake Rocks


Good day shame about the weather.
Friday 19th March 2004, Day 188/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand to Franz Josef Glacier, New Zealand

Another road trip. This time we headed west over Arthur's Pass and then south to Franz Josef Glacier, where we stayed in the YHA youth hostel. The weather was pretty bleak and spoilt what was sure to have been a great view.

Thursday, March 18, 2004

Thursday 18th March 2004, Day 187/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand

Went to the Antartic Centre which is just by the Airport here in Christchurch. It cost Nz$30 admission which included a ride in the Haggelund over the rough terrain.



Haggelund


The Haggelund takes you over steep hills, on 31 deg cambers and through 3 metre deep water. It was a fun ride.

The centre is actually the base for all the departures to the Antartic and is a research centre. It tries to give you a feel for what it would be like to go to the Antartic with a mock of the Scott base camp and you get to experience a real antartic storm with winds up to 120 kmh. Jeez it was cold.....



Snow storm


.... but I had fun.

The centre was very informative and interactive with lots of things to do, but was over all to soon. The centre has also been voted New Zealand's best attraction twice. Personally I think that you don't need to pay for New Zealands best attraction.
Wednesday 17th March 2004, Day 186/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand

Happy St Patricks Day.

Why is that when St Patricks Day comes around everyone thinks they are Irish and yet no one gives a toss about St Georges Day?

Tuesday, March 16, 2004

Tuesday 16th March 2004, Day 185/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand

I'm conscious that my blog makes very dull reading at the moment. It's not like I've been doing nothing, but you don't want to hear that I've been shopping and that I cooked a curry. It was good though. I'm still learning things and discovering stuff, like how to find the interference figures for the minerals olivine, calcite, pyroxine and plagioclase feldspar.

New Zealand has a beauty that I find hard to put into words. It was easy to write about america and all the craziness that was going on around.

I finished book 16 now. Bill Bryson - Notes from a Small Island. Funny as ever and I almost cried at the last few paragraphs (not really), but it was good.

Went down the job centre looking for some casual work. That wasn't really what I'm looking for. I'm looking for some very casual and very part time work. Anybody got any clues where to look?
Monday 15th March 2004, Day 184/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand

Aggh! I got to thinking about retaking the exam that I failed in December so I e mailed my tutor and she advised me that the AAT are changing all the standards. She thinks that I should retake the exam in June, wherever I may be. The only thing is I don't think the AAT have any exam centres in the southern hemisphere so I might have to go to Trinidad (only joking).

There was only 1 thing to do and that was to go back to the Holy Grail and watch Blackburn v Arsenal and then Man City v Man Utd.
Sunday 14th March 2004, Day 183/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand

I took a bike ride into town today to the Holy Grail where I watched Fulham v Leeds on the huge screen, sat in the grandstand and ate my NZ$10 cooked breakfast. It was my first view of football since the Everglades and it felt good.

I'm on the homeward stretch now. 6 months gone and 6 to go.
Saturday 13th March 2004, Day 182/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand

We headed to Akaroa which is about 80 km's south of Christchurch on the banks peninsula. The banks peninsula was formed out of 2 volcanoes and makes a pleasant change from the flat area that surrounds Christchurch.

Akaroa was a French settlement and is now a bit of a tourist trap where you can swim with dolphins, play mini golf or check out the light house. I'm not entirely sure of the point of Akaroa except to look pretty and attract tourists, both of which it does very well. It reminded me very much of a small fishing village in Cornwall.

On the way back we took the scenic route round the rim of the former volcano crater, which gave a stunning back down into the harbour.



Akaroa
Friday 12th March 2004, Day 181/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand

It's stupid the things in life that you miss without realising. I've always said that although I'm loving being away I also yearn for the normality of grocery shopping and cooking. Still it all makes a nice change from McDonalds, crisps and soda, none of which I have touched in weeks.

Finally found a dartboard in a bar called the Holy Grail in the centre of Christchurch. It's a great place because it also has Sky Sports and a grandstand to watch the screen from.



Kiwi Humour

Thursday, March 11, 2004

Thursday 11th March 2004, Day 180/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand

Met up with Mx who is in town for a few hours on her Ringer (Lord of the Rings) tour. Caught up on all her news. She's on the homeward stretch now and I think really looking forward to getting home. I'm not. I've nearly been away 6 months, so I'm almost half the way through, but there is still much I need to do. I can't see myself settling back into my old routines of work when I get back. I can't see me doing Accounts as a long term career either although it's a decent backup and I know there are plenty of temp jobs in that field until I work out where I want to be.

Wednesday 10th March 2004, Day 179/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand

Watched Silence of the Lambs today. Then I slept through Hanibal and then I watched Hanibal. Got to say although they were good they didn't really scare me.
Tuesday 9th March 2004, Day 178/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand

Happy 21st Big Steve.

Bought a mountain bike for Nz$159 so I can take advantage of some of the great bike trails over here.

Had a freaky e mail from a Dukie friend. He'd given me some advice on Fiji so I emailed him yesterday to tell him what I had done in Fiji and ask where he was now. Turns out he's in Christchurch too, but only for one day. I took his phone number eager to call him as soon as I could, but as I was walking down the street I bumped into him. Isn't life amazing sometimes.

DT (H/Wn 86-91) we'd been in the same house and dorm for 5 years at Dukies. We both left at the end of 5th form and went to Farnborough 6th form college. We both come from Fleet, yet I haven't seen him in 12 years and where should I bump into him? On the other side of the world. Bizarre but so nice to see him. It's always a shame that time goes too quickly and so much is left unsaid, but I really hope I don't have to wait another 12 years to catch up with him.


A Dukie reunion 13 years on and on the other side of the world. Big up to DT (H/Wn 86/91)
Monday 8th March 2004, Day 177/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand

The car cost Nz$90 to fix. They also reckon that the head gasket is leaking as I'd driven it while it was too hot. They quoted another Nz$1500 to fix it. I think I'll give that a miss. Teaches me a lesson though. Do I sell the car now? or do I run it into the ground?

Sunday 7th March 2004, Day 176/366 - Motueka, New Zealand to Christchurch, New Zealand

Took the inland route back to Christchurch down through the Lewis Pass. This trip wasn't as good as the last one. I think the north was more populated and really we spent too much time in the car. The scenary was beautiful. We managed to cover 1200 km's. It didn't help that my car broke down 100 km's outside of Christchurch. It had overheated and I thought I could nurse it all the way home. Luckily a nice man saw us stranded and pulled over and helped. I'd split a water pipe to the radiator and lost pretty much all the water in the radiator. It's a good job he was a mechanic as he did all the right things and I managed to get the car back home.
Saturday 6th March 2004, Day 175/366 - Havelock, New Zealand to Motueka, New Zealand

Drove on to Nelson passing Queen Charlotte and Pelorus Sound. We passed straight through Nelson and stopped just north at Rabbit Island. We flitted round the outside of the Abel Tasman National Park stopping at the Ngarua Caves. The caves were pretty cool as it was very touristy and the chap who did the tour had basically excavated the caves himself. He was very informative on the formations of the caves and the staligtites and stalimites. He had also uncovered remains from a Moa (the NZ dinosaur) in these caves and very proudly showed off his wares.

We continued up to Farewell Spit which is the most northern part of the South Island. Not particularly exciting, but it's always good to say that you've been.



A whale rescue kit.......




..... but I think this one may be beyond help


Headed back to Motueka and stayed at the Happy Apple hostel. Had dinner in the Dodgy Ref.
Friday 5th March 2004, Day 174/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand to Havelock, New Zealand

Another road trip. This time we headed north to Kaikoura. At Kaikoura there is a tremendous view across the sun drenched beach with snowy mountains as a backdrop.


Kaikoura - See I told you it was beautiful


Just north of Kaikoura there is another seal colony at Ohau point.

We continued on up to Blenheim which is a bit of a nothingness so we headed to a suggested pub in Renwick. The Cork and Keg is said to be a traditional English pub which has a dartboard. Unfortunately they lied about the dartboard, but it had a jolly londoner serving behind the bar so we stayed for a pint and a game of cribbage and some food.

Time was pressing on, but unfortunately there was no room in the Renwick hostel so we had to press on to Havelock and stayed at the Rutherford YHA. It was nice enough, but set in an old school house complete with creaky floorboards, stiff beds and room like jail cells.

Friday, March 05, 2004

Thursday 4th March 2004, Day 173/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand.

Back to Lyttleton, still Little and still not a ton to do, but much nicer in the sunlight. Took the scenic drive out to Godley Head and Taylors Mistake and watched the paragliding. Might give that a go at some point.



Lyttleton
Wednesday 3rd March 2004, Day 172/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand.

I'm really struggling to get free wireless. I tried 'evil' Starbucks but they don't even have a server. The best option is to bunk into the university library. Not free, but cheap.

Sorted out my car insurance. It was nz$ 450 fully comp for a year. When I leave and cancel i'll get the balance back. It also includes roadside recovery which could come in handy.
Tuesday 2nd March 2004, Day 171/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand.

Went and watched the Last Samurai again. Still a good film. That's the problem with having been in america for a while. I've seen all that's on in the movies at the moment and all the things I wanted to watch don't come out for months.
Monday 1st March 2004, Day 170/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand.

Finally found someone who I can play keepy uppy's and head tennis with and then she goes and breaks her leg trying to do the Ardiles rainbow flick. To be fair she managed it a couple of times before she fell awkwardly and up came a swelling the size of a baseball on her ankle.

I took her down the hospital and got all the banter from the nurses about how the hard bit in the lump was bone and how it looked dislocated and how some fractures needed surgery and how some didn't, but it's okay because the good surgeons were in today. After several people came round and prodded and poked, the x rays showed it wasn't broken, just badly sprained. So Liz is on crutches.

I think she was a little reluctant about going to the hospital as she's american and it would have cost $1000's back home. Here however all the treatment was free. The wonders of free health care.
Sunday 29th February 2004, Day 169/366 - Queenstown, New Zealand to Christchurch, New Zealand.

Queenstown is the adrenaline capital of NZ. We spent the morning walking round collecting info on sky diving, bungy jumping, off road biking, white water rafting etc. for a return trip.

We drove out via the Kawarau Bridge bungy jump and watched a few hearty souls throw themselves off the 47m oldest bungy jump. It costs NZ$ 5 to observe the victims, but there are plenty of free vantage points too.



Bungeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!


This area is also renowned for it's wineries etc. so we stopped off at the Chard Valley winery, also the Gibbston Valley cheesery, a juicery and sampled some of the delights. We also had a stop off at the gold fields where you can pan for gold.

We stopped in Cromwell for no other reason than it had a giant peach, apple and pear above it's name. It claims to be 'The Centre of Attraction', well I don't know about that, but we did play mini golf.



Cromwell - The Centre of Attraction


The drive back to Christchurch just gets more breathtaking when Mount Cook appears across Lake Pukaki. You're going to get bored of reading about these moments, but it was another lucky bastard moment.

On arriving back in Christchurch we had covered 1800 kms in 4 days. We'd seen an awful lot and I think it'll take time to all sink in.

The day was also significant because I think for the first time in my life I had no meat. Now where was that Burger King drive thru.
Saturday 28th February 2004, Day 168/366 - Invercargill, New Zealand to Queenstown, New Zealand.

You may have heard that NZ has a large sheep population. Nothing can prepare you for the number of sheep that you will see. They are everywhere you turn. It is extraordinary.

The Southern Scenic Route continues up to Te Anau at Doubtful Sound where the route ends, but the stunning scenery doesn't. Te Anau is right on the edge of the Fiordland National Park. We headed into the park and up to Milford Sound. This is the most popular of the Fiord's and in truth when I got there I was a little disappointed. There is no doubting it's beauty, but there is also no doubting the fact that it is a bit of a tourist trap. Coach loads of tourists come up here everyday to go for a cruise along the Sound. The terminal is very sterile. Also when the rain stops the little black sand flies come out and get everywhere.



Mitre Point @ Milford Sound


It was nice to have been able to drive myself up there as then we can stop off at the less popular tourist spots that are just as stunning. I know I keep using words like spectacular, breathtaking, stunning, beautiful, but really there are not enough superlatives to describe the beauty. I know that the photo's just won't do it justice. It's just something that you must see. Although the weather was dreary it was still nice as it meant you could see the waterfalls cascading down the fiords.

It was a day full of Middle Earth moments.

We headed back out of the park and spent the night in Queenstown.
Friday 27th February 2004, Day 167/366 - Dunedin, New Zealand to Invercargill, New Zealand.

Bought a couple of cheesy tapes to play in the cassette deck. There is something to be said to listening to '2 Unlimited' and others 90's tat on a road trip.

Out of Dunedin we took the Southern Scenic Route. We stopped off at Kaka Point and then Nugget Point. At Nugget Point we walked out to the lighthouse that overlooks the sealions playing down below on the crumbling land stacks. This was a definite tour highlight.



Nugget Point


We continued to Sandy Bay where apparently you can hang out with the sealions. Following Liz's directions we made our way down unmade roads, through cow fields, opening the fields gates along the way. It felt kind of strange, but she was adamant that it was the right way. When we got to the beach there were no signs of the sealions or anything for that matter. As we made our way back we saw the 'Private Property' sign on the first gate we'd gone through. Turns out that it wasn't the right way. No wonder the cows were looking at us so strangely. Sorry for any distress I may have caused the cows.

Further down 'Catlins Coast' we saw the sign for the real Sandy Bay, but we didn't take it, we just carried on to Purakanaui Falls. These falls aren't huge, but are very picturesque.
Thursday 26th February 2004, Day 166/366 - Timaru, New Zealand to Dunedin, New Zealand.

Around Timaru there are lots of instances of Maori rock art. We took a trip round to a few of them. It was nice to be off the beaten track, but unfortunately the art wasn't always clearly visible and in some cases had been graffitied and vandalised.

Next stop was Oamaru where we went to see the penguins, had a walk around the cliffs and down to the rocky beach.

The drive from Oamaru to the Moeraki Boulders was more stunning than the best bits of the Pacific Coast Highway in California. The Moeraki Boulders are like giant marbles that in one of those freaks of nature the ocean has eroded away. They are pretty spectacular.

We continued down to Dunedin where we found a room in the very pikey Statesman Hotel. It was one of those sleazy dives above a bar, but was pretty cool because I shared a beer with the English bar man, who happened to be a big Tottenham and cricket fan.

Had dinner in the Hungry Frenchman and one noticeable difference since I've seen in New Zealand is the slow service in restaurants. Tipping is not considered normal in New Zealand. Maybe that is a factor.
Wednesday 25th February 2004, Day 165/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand to Timaru, New Zealand.

Went hunting for a car today. It’s very easy to do here in NZ. 2nd hand cars tend to be cheap. Christchurch has a number of auction houses and 1 specialist backpackers auction. The buy and sell paper has many cars advertised, as do the hostels and regular haunts for travellers. Many of the car dealers also sell cheap cars. I ended up buying a 1986 Toyota Corona 2.0 GTS. It's done 211,000 kms, is automatic, has electric everything, power steering and air con. Cost NZ$ 2,500. You don't need to have insurance to drive in NZ, but your car needs to be WOF'd (MOT'd) and registered. The garage sorted me out with those.

When I got back to the digs we decided to embark on a road trip. We headed south down the east coast passing the big fish in Rakaia and ended up in Timaru.


The mean machine - Baramewe


Just a funny sign

and another
Tuesday 24th February 2004, Day 164/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand.

Took the bus out to Lyttleton which the hairdresser had recommended. Unfortunately it was raining so we didn't stay long. Lyttleton was very little and there wasn't a ton to do.
Monday 23rd February 2004, Day 163/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand.

Went and did some shopping for some essentials as I've been out of the loop for a while, then I went for an explore. On leaving the hotel I knew immediately that I would love Christchurch. It has all the character that most of the US cities didn't. There's a Cathedral Square, a town crier, botanical gardens, parks with statues and streams meandering through them with punts on, an oasis of serenity where you can sit and watch the world go by. I couldn't sit on a secluded beach all day, but I could sit in this park and watch the old fellas playing chess, the seagulls, the tourists or the bible basher.



Christchurch Cathedral


There was even an 'evil' Starbucks, but that fitted in tastefully. The panhandler just seemed to add to the character.

It was strange to see people driving on the right side of the road and normal size portions in McDonalds. There was even a shoe repairers. It struck me that I hadn't seen a shoe repairers in the US. It's strange the things you miss. There was no root beer so I've had to go with ginger beer.

I bought a sleep sack today. I think they are more important to bring away than a sleeping bag. A lot of the hostels don't allow sleeping bags, but a sleep sack will keep you off the grotty mattresses.

In the evening I made contact with Hawaiian (farmer's tan) Liz, who very kindly offered me space in her student digs while I'm on the south island. It'll be nice to have a base to explore the island from and I'll get to cook my own food too. Much cheapness required.
Sunday 22nd February 2004, Day 162/366 - Nadi, Viti Levu, Fiji to Christchurch, New Zealand.

The night was too hot, there were too many mozzies and too many excitable young australians so I checked out at 2.30, got a taxi (F$5) and spent 3 uncomfortable hours in the airport waiting for check in to open. At least they had air conditioning.

In the taxi on the way back to the airport, along the same route I'd taken just 7 days before I realised just how much I'd learnt that week. They were 7 of the longest and most trying (mentally) days of my life. I would have liked to have seen more of the main island and the islands, but I'm worn out. I'll come back with more confidence and experience to explore further and better prepared. It's an easy place to travel around. There are travel agents everywhere, just be sure that you know what you want to do and see.

I was on the 8.40 to Auckland. The flight took 2 hours 50 minutes. The film was 'Don't go breaking my heart' which really didn't hold my attention. We arrived in Auckland at 12.40 there's a 1 hour difference due to daylight savings so now I'm 13 hours ahead of you.

Took ages to get through customs because of a computer malfunction and they are very thorough in checking for meats and flowers that may damage NZ's agriculture.

I walked over to the domestic terminal for a transfer to Christchurch costing NZ$ 110 with Qantas. Doesn't leave till 16.30 so I got to watch Parkinson and AB Fab, which was a little strange after being in America for so long. The flight took 1 hour 20 mins.

When I got to Christchurch I checked myself into the Crowne Plaza NZ$180 as I felt the need to treat myself, to a bath especially. The airport transfer cost NZ$14.

My first impressions were that NZ is very green, not very busy and there's a nice sprawl to the cities. The south has less inhabitants and on the western coast has mountains and glaciers. The land was flat around Christchurch. There are loads of sheep and pig farms. Auckland felt like a big airport. Christchurch didn't. The temperature was 32 degs in Auckland and 17 degs in Christchurch.
Saturday 21st February 2004, Day 161/366 - Beachcomber Island, Fiji Island to Nadi, Viti Levu, Fiji

For backpackers Beachcomber Island is like being treated like royalty. It's more of a holiday resort than a backpackers location, but it does have dorm beds, excellent food and nightly entertainment from the polynesian dancers and the far from invigorating band, whose entire repertoire consists of 80's slow numbers sung in Fiji time. Between each song they have a 5 minute break where they just stand there looking spaced. Occasionally 1 of the members will go to start the next song, but the others will just not bother playing along. If they were paid by the number of songs they played they certainly won't be rich men. Everytime they make an announcement they always say 'Bula, to the bar'. It's a surreal world that I'm living in.

If you're not into drinking and listening to the band then you could always do one of the numerous water sports on offer, play volleyball or touch rugby, go snorkelling, do a diving course, have a massage, play crazy golf or just sit in the hot tub. I plumped for sitting in the bar, reading and chilling mainly. I even managed to finish my 15th book 'The autobiography of MLK Jr.' edited by Clayborne Carson. The editor made the book from the papers that the King family kept from notes that MLK made at the time. I didn't know much about MLK before I came away, but now i understand what a great man he was, very clever and well educated and how many times did he go to prison?

Note to Andy H, I met 2 more Norwegians and they confirmed that 1 Nordic mile = 10 kilometre's. They can't all be having me on can they?

Whilst in Fiji I've spoken to lots of people about NZ and I've now changed my flights to leave 2 days earlier. I feel I've done my time in Fiji. A lot of the conversations about NZ are about which bungy jump you've done. I'm sure NZ has more to offer than that and I intend to find out. What everyone did say was that there was more to do in the south island. I can't actually change my RTW ticket to fly direct to Christchurch, but apparently the transfers are relatively cheap.

I took the early boat F$41 (11.30) back to the mainland. Beachcomber drops you back at the hotel you are checked into. I stayed at the Nadi Bay Hotel F$20. Nadi is nicer in the sunlight, but still a dump and not somewhere that I want to spend any amount of time. It was nice to kick back for a few hours at the hotel, go for a swim, write some postcards and read a book.

I turned in early for the night as i had a 5.00 start to get to the airport. At 20.30 the feejee experience bus arrived and 6 young and excitable aussie girls ended up in my dorm. They spent 2 noisy hours getting ready and then went out on the beer. I'm so glad I didn't do the Feejee Experience. I'm too old for all that.

Wednesday, March 03, 2004

Friday 20th February 2004, Day 160/366 - Beachcomber Island, Fiji Island.

This isn't a joke.

Well what can you do on an Island that you can walk round in 10 minutes when you have a hangover and a severe case of island fever?

Drink more expensive beer that you can't afford.
Thursday 19th February 2004, Day 159/366 - Mana, Fiji Islands to Beachcomber Island, Fiji Island.

Today Roger and I are transferring to Beachcomber Island for 2 nights. In the words of Eastwood "if you want to get laid go to Beachcomber". On Mana there are 3 big boats a day that transfer you to the other islands. You can also catch little ones, but I'd like to keep my stuff dry if possible. The big boat transfer costs F$41.
I'm not totally sad to be leaving Mana. I'm glad I came and I think I got an insight into how Fijians live, but I've had my fill and I need a shower. I'm even considering changing my flight again to leave Fiji early. I think the saying goes 'good times, not long times'.

Everything is hit and miss with booking things in Fiji. You are never sure if you have got through to the person that you are talking to, but somehow you always get where you want to be. It can be intensely frustrating.

On the boat the captain announces "Who's going to beachcomber?" it was like him saying "Who wants to get laid?". Only me and Roger then. I would just like to point out that that is not why i'm coming here, it's supposed to be quite nice, just a bit of a party place.

We'd spent 3 hours on the boat island hopping with dodgy rum hangovers.

On arrival at Beachcomber we met up with 2 of Rogers aussie mates and immediately started drinking at 2 PM. Beachcomber is a backpacker resort as opposed to a hostel. It has an 100 bed dorm and costs F$77 a night including food. The food is much better, but this doesn't have the feel of travelling. You also don't need money on the island as you can charge everything to you room/bed! That's a very dangerous situation.

We started on Fiji bitter, progressed to drambuie, then cocktails, margaritas before ending on FB again. It's expensive here, but there's not much else to do. We even threw a couple of cava's in on the way.

Cava is supposed to be a ceremonial drink which basically looks like dirty water and taste the same. It's a root that is left in a muddy puddle and you drink the residue. It has a similar effect to narcotics and after a while makes your lips and tongue go numb and you sleep like a baby.

For a party place it was a bit lame. It wasn't so much 18-30 it was more 16-18. Plenty of wankers here. This isn't visiting Fiji and seeing how Fijians live. It was fun, but I'm glad I went to Mana first.

The four of us were all displaying our red sox (sun burnt feet), but one thing bothered me about Roger and that was he carried about a PINK bottle of after sun with him. He's from Cumbria, but lives in NYC and after 5 years there he frazzled in no time at all, even through the clouds. The pink stuff helped him. The other concern was when he returned from one of his trips to the bar he says. 'You see those water jugs up there, well I've seen people put lemon in them before, but never cucumber.' Um are you sure it's not lime maybe. This guy works in a bar as well.
Wednesday 18th February 2004, Day 158/366 - Mana, Fiji Islands.

Went island hopping on a tiny boat with Han, Shea, Roger, Peter and Guy for F$35.

The first stop is the 'Plantation Island Resort' where we made use of this expensive island resorts facilities, by having a dip in the pool. It's been ages since I could have a decent wash so this was nice. It was made even more enjoyable, by watching Guy try to dive. He was terrible. Does anyone remember the game mousetrap? If you do then Guy dived just like the bloke from that. Praying hands at his chest and bent knees. He kept that form all the way into the pool. Priceless.

Next resort was 'Musket Cove' where we had a barbecue.

On the way back they left us at a deserted beach on Malolo Island. Han did her best impression of a bond girl. She was Ursula Andress and Halle Berry all rolled into one.

Finally it was back to Mana to enjoy my last night there and the beautiful sunset. On the agenda tonight was crab racing. I finished 2nd and 3rd (with the aussie crab 'Stephen Larkham' and the Fijian 'Bula Boy', Johnny Wilkinson won) and then we went to the beach to sit round a fire and sing Hotel California. It was the only song the locals knew and they were all singing different verses. It didn't matter.

The weather, the people, the food and the times all got better as the days passed on Mana.



The beautiful last sunset on Mana


Tuesday 17th February 2004, Day 157/366 - Mana, Fiji Islands.

For a change the sun is shining so we took a walk right around the outside of the island. The island has 2 hostel next to each other and the F$300 a night Mana Island Resort. The walk round the island takes 2 hours, not because it's a big island, but because walking through sand, wading in the ocean and clambering around rocky headlands all in Fijian time takes a long time.

Today I'm beginning to understand what Eastwood meant by paradise and a few more people arrived from the mainland. The water was so nice that I spent too long in it and got fried by the sun. I knew I was frying, but I couldn't help but enjoy the ocean.


The beautiful beach at Mana


Tomorrow nights' dinner on Mana!!!

In the evening we were treated to polynesian dancing including Luke's terrific fire dance. We were also taught the bula dance which reminded me of barn dances at school and was a mix between the macarena and saturday night with the pelvic thrusts from the time warp. It gave the locals a cheap thrill to see a load of red europeans making pratt's of themselves.
Monday 16th February 2004, Day 156/366 - Mana, Fiji Islands.

Happy Birthday Stivsy.

Just for a change it's pissing it down. I can see me counting the days till I leave.

The dorm is 20 bed mixed dorm right in the middle of the islanders village.

It's a strange feeling being stuck on a small island in the middle of the pacific ocean.  All you can see is other small islands and lots of ocean.

Everyone is pretty miserable and I miss the camaraderie from Hawaii and the chuffing mozzies are driving me crazy. You can use credit cards even on this small and rather backward island, but they charge 5%.

They do arrange daily activities, but they've mainly been cancelled due to the weather. The excitement of the day was going to see the baby sharks feeding off the reef, but even they couldn't be bothered to turn up.

Lots of the hostellers have headed back to the mainland due to the weather. Well if they're gonna be miserable then they can go for all I care. I'm gonna stick it out.

In the evening the food was better and the islands school put on a concert for us which was very cool.

My first impressions of the little bit of Fiji that I've seen are that it's very green and lush, probably due to all the rain they've had recently, that has also affected the colour of the water. It's very run down. The islands are the place to be. The Fijians are very friendly. They all say 'Bula Mate' as you walk past and they all want to talk about sport, mainly rugby and football. If the Fijians were any more laid back they'd be on their heads. They have a thing called Fiji time which means that if something is due to start at 10 am Fiji time, it could start at 9,10, 11 or whenever they can be bothered. Checkout however is at 10am (English time). They also sell normal chocolate (Dairy Milk) in the shops and the Queens head is on the money.
Sunday 15th February 2004, Day 155/366 - Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii to Mana, Fiji Islands.

I've no idea where Saturday the 14th of February 2004 went.  Our flight was delayed in Honolulu while they resolved a technical issue with the plane. They wanted to off load passengers, to lighten the plane as they were worried the pilots may run out of hours.  I volunteered as I haven't booked any accommodation in Fiji and most other people had connections to make. In the end they didn't need us to off load as they thought they could make it!

It turns they couldn't make it and the plans were further scuppered by the weather in Fiji, a cyclone apparently. We ended up having to stop in Apia, Samoa.  They had to fly a new plane and crew. After 2 hours on the ground in Apia it took 1 hour 35 mins to get to Nadi, Fiji.
On the the first flight I watched my new favourite movie 'Radio'. On the second plane I was trying to decide where to stay. I want to see Mana Island, Beachcomber Island and Nanana I Ru Island. I'll just play it by ear. I considered doing the Feejee experience, but I think I'll just make my own way after meeting some of the kids doing the experience in the departure lounge.

It's my 1st time in the southern hemisphere and you know what it doesn't feel any different, just warmer. I'm now 12 hours ahead.

From what I saw Samoa it was very nice. Arrived 6 hours late in Nadi at 12.00. The weather was rainy and windy, but humid, but its a good day because Fleet won for the first time in months.

When you clear customs there are lots of people waiting around to book you in to the island resorts. It was a very slick operation within about 15 minutes I had my next 10 days planned out. I'm glad I did it as now I won't be wasting any days.

They arranged my taxi to the marina (F$30) where I was to transfer to the island of Mana. At the dock I got all the horror stories of sea sickness and cyclones. The 90 minute transfer to Mana costs F$56. There was a massive storm came in as I was about to board so this could get icky. It's been a long day and after 2 turbulent flights this is the last thing I need.

As it happened I managed to keep my breakfast down. I can't say the same for all the other passengers. Good luck to Mx on her cruise.

Staying at Ratu Kini's for F$45 including meals. Feel like I've been stiffed. Dinner was very basic and accommodation has no hot water and the electricity is sporadic. I'm not sure what the meat was but there are a few dogs running around. Maybe there are one less than there was yesterday. It's also pissing it down.

Eastwood told me that this was paradise and that Mana was her favorite place in Fiji. It feels far from that right now. Let me get some sleep and see in the morning.
Saturday 14th February 2004, Day 154/366 - No idea.

Day lost due to crossing the date line. Boo sucks and weird. Somehow we had an unscheduled 2 hours in Samoa on the 14th, I'm so confused.



A picture from my brief time in Samoa


Friday 13th February 2004, Day 153/366 - Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii.

Got into a cycle of drinking too much and too often in Waikiki. Basically I enjoyed myself muchly. I guess you can tell how much fun I've had coz of the lack of reading I've done.

I met some great people over the last 2 weeks. Brandy from Arizona, Rich from Seattle now Maui, Tom from Watford, Dave from Brum and Vincent from Sydney.

So I'm back to Honolulu Airport after 2 fantastic weeks and 5 long months in America. I'm leaving with 79 cents in my pocket. Its fair to say that the Bloobuoy funds have run dry. Yep I've spent the best part of 8k in 5 great months, but does it mean the end of the tour. No, coz that's why credit cards were invented and the experience is more important than the money, right? However all donations would be gratefully received.

The Hawaiian words I learnt were Aloha - Hello and Mahola - Thanks. I'm such a linguist.
Thursday 12th February 2004, Day 152/366 - Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii.

Surf wasn't up as hoped so Mx and I had a spot of breakfast and then headed to Pearl Harbour. A few tips. The trip to the USS Arizona is free, but arrive early as there are only a certain number of trips a day. You can also take a trip around the battleship USS Missouri, which is where the Japanese signed the treaty at the end of the war. That costs $16 so we didn't bother. Another thing we didn't bother to do was the $8 tour of the submarine the USS Bowfin which is known as the Pearl Harbour Avenger. They don't allow day packs, fanny packs, diaper bags or the like on the boats so either leave them at home or you can store them for $2.

It's my last day in Hawaii and in the USA so Vincent, Keith, Liz and I hit the local hotspot 'Da Dawg House' as we had on the previous 4 nights. It's a local bar which is empty, but lively and we could play darts and pool and drink Corona for $2.50.
Wednesday 11th February 2004, Day 151/366 - Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii.

Went to Honolulu zoo ($6) which was cheap, but in pretty poor condition. Still plenty to see.


At one with the goat




It was nice of my Dad to make an appearance at the zoo. It was even nicer of the keeper to give him a brush


We then took the free shuttle to Hilo Hatties in Honolulu. Hilo Hatties is a big Hawaiian store. Basically there's loads of sea shells and flowery shirts.

Walked back to Waikiki and on the way stopped off for a pint in Hooters. Its a sad day, as this will be my last visit to Hooters on this tour. In honour of the occasion I bought the obligatory Hooters T Shirt. When I was browsing through the sizes the Hooters girl says 'We go right up to size 2XL.' I didn't think that I'd put on that much weight. Bless her.

Also stopped in at the cinema to watch the new Owen Wilson film 'Big Bounce' as it's set in Hawaii. What can I say about it except for 'it's crap'. The acting and directing was really poor and they didn't even do justice to the beauty of Hawaii.

Mx arrived back in Honolulu, but "couldn't" get in the hostel.

In the evening I went for a beer and pizza with Keith and Vincent from the hostel.



The Hustler


I've had a flashback to last week at Makena beach on Maui. We drove over on the hostel mini bus and you obviously get chatting to people. I spoke with Chris and his wife (a normal couple in their 40's from Colorado). You may remember that Makena had a big beach and a little beach. The little beach was for general frolicking and nudity. When I walked over there I didn't know where to put my eyes, but I do recall seeing Chris (a large gentlemen) in all his starkers glory. He just gave me a little wave and I quickly carried on, on my way knowing just a little bit too much more about Chris than I wanted to. To say that it was an awkward moment would be an understatement.

I also forgot it was a leap year so I get an extra day away this year.

A MAN IS LYING IN BED IN THE HOSPITAL WITH AN OXYGEN MASK OVER HIS MOUTH. A YOUNG NURSE APPEARS TO SPONGE HIS HANDS AND FEET.

"NURSE", HE MUMBLES FROM BEHIND THE MASK, "ARE MY TESTICLES BLACK?"

EMBARRASSED, THE YOUNG NURSE REPLIES, "I DON'T KNOW, I'M ONLY HERE TO WASH YOUR HANDS AND FEET"

HE STRUGGLES AGAIN TO ASK, "NURSE, ARE MY TESTICLES BLACK?"

FINALLY, SHE PULLS BACK THE COVERS, RAISES HIS GOWN, HOLDS HIS PENIS IN ONE HAND AND HIS TESTICLES IN HER OTHER HAND AND TAKES A CLOSE LOOK, AND SAYS, "THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH THEM!"

FINALLY, THE MAN PULLS OFF HIS OXYGEN MASK AND REPLIES, "THAT WAS VERY NICE BUT, ARE... MY... TEST... RESULTS... BACK???"