Monday 1st March 2004, Day 170/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand.
Finally found someone who I can play keepy uppy's and head tennis with and then she goes and breaks her leg trying to do the Ardiles rainbow flick. To be fair she managed it a couple of times before she fell awkwardly and up came a swelling the size of a baseball on her ankle.
I took her down the hospital and got all the banter from the nurses about how the hard bit in the lump was bone and how it looked dislocated and how some fractures needed surgery and how some didn't, but it's okay because the good surgeons were in today. After several people came round and prodded and poked, the x rays showed it wasn't broken, just badly sprained. So Liz is on crutches.
I think she was a little reluctant about going to the hospital as she's american and it would have cost $1000's back home. Here however all the treatment was free. The wonders of free health care.
Friday, March 05, 2004
Sunday 29th February 2004, Day 169/366 - Queenstown, New Zealand to Christchurch, New Zealand.
Queenstown is the adrenaline capital of NZ. We spent the morning walking round collecting info on sky diving, bungy jumping, off road biking, white water rafting etc. for a return trip.
We drove out via the Kawarau Bridge bungy jump and watched a few hearty souls throw themselves off the 47m oldest bungy jump. It costs NZ$ 5 to observe the victims, but there are plenty of free vantage points too.
Bungeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
This area is also renowned for it's wineries etc. so we stopped off at the Chard Valley winery, also the Gibbston Valley cheesery, a juicery and sampled some of the delights. We also had a stop off at the gold fields where you can pan for gold.
We stopped in Cromwell for no other reason than it had a giant peach, apple and pear above it's name. It claims to be 'The Centre of Attraction', well I don't know about that, but we did play mini golf.
Cromwell - The Centre of Attraction
The drive back to Christchurch just gets more breathtaking when Mount Cook appears across Lake Pukaki. You're going to get bored of reading about these moments, but it was another lucky bastard moment.
On arriving back in Christchurch we had covered 1800 kms in 4 days. We'd seen an awful lot and I think it'll take time to all sink in.
The day was also significant because I think for the first time in my life I had no meat. Now where was that Burger King drive thru.
Queenstown is the adrenaline capital of NZ. We spent the morning walking round collecting info on sky diving, bungy jumping, off road biking, white water rafting etc. for a return trip.
We drove out via the Kawarau Bridge bungy jump and watched a few hearty souls throw themselves off the 47m oldest bungy jump. It costs NZ$ 5 to observe the victims, but there are plenty of free vantage points too.
This area is also renowned for it's wineries etc. so we stopped off at the Chard Valley winery, also the Gibbston Valley cheesery, a juicery and sampled some of the delights. We also had a stop off at the gold fields where you can pan for gold.
We stopped in Cromwell for no other reason than it had a giant peach, apple and pear above it's name. It claims to be 'The Centre of Attraction', well I don't know about that, but we did play mini golf.
The drive back to Christchurch just gets more breathtaking when Mount Cook appears across Lake Pukaki. You're going to get bored of reading about these moments, but it was another lucky bastard moment.
On arriving back in Christchurch we had covered 1800 kms in 4 days. We'd seen an awful lot and I think it'll take time to all sink in.
The day was also significant because I think for the first time in my life I had no meat. Now where was that Burger King drive thru.
Saturday 28th February 2004, Day 168/366 - Invercargill, New Zealand to Queenstown, New Zealand.
You may have heard that NZ has a large sheep population. Nothing can prepare you for the number of sheep that you will see. They are everywhere you turn. It is extraordinary.
The Southern Scenic Route continues up to Te Anau at Doubtful Sound where the route ends, but the stunning scenery doesn't. Te Anau is right on the edge of the Fiordland National Park. We headed into the park and up to Milford Sound. This is the most popular of the Fiord's and in truth when I got there I was a little disappointed. There is no doubting it's beauty, but there is also no doubting the fact that it is a bit of a tourist trap. Coach loads of tourists come up here everyday to go for a cruise along the Sound. The terminal is very sterile. Also when the rain stops the little black sand flies come out and get everywhere.
Mitre Point @ Milford Sound
It was nice to have been able to drive myself up there as then we can stop off at the less popular tourist spots that are just as stunning. I know I keep using words like spectacular, breathtaking, stunning, beautiful, but really there are not enough superlatives to describe the beauty. I know that the photo's just won't do it justice. It's just something that you must see. Although the weather was dreary it was still nice as it meant you could see the waterfalls cascading down the fiords.
It was a day full of Middle Earth moments.
We headed back out of the park and spent the night in Queenstown.
You may have heard that NZ has a large sheep population. Nothing can prepare you for the number of sheep that you will see. They are everywhere you turn. It is extraordinary.
The Southern Scenic Route continues up to Te Anau at Doubtful Sound where the route ends, but the stunning scenery doesn't. Te Anau is right on the edge of the Fiordland National Park. We headed into the park and up to Milford Sound. This is the most popular of the Fiord's and in truth when I got there I was a little disappointed. There is no doubting it's beauty, but there is also no doubting the fact that it is a bit of a tourist trap. Coach loads of tourists come up here everyday to go for a cruise along the Sound. The terminal is very sterile. Also when the rain stops the little black sand flies come out and get everywhere.
It was nice to have been able to drive myself up there as then we can stop off at the less popular tourist spots that are just as stunning. I know I keep using words like spectacular, breathtaking, stunning, beautiful, but really there are not enough superlatives to describe the beauty. I know that the photo's just won't do it justice. It's just something that you must see. Although the weather was dreary it was still nice as it meant you could see the waterfalls cascading down the fiords.
It was a day full of Middle Earth moments.
We headed back out of the park and spent the night in Queenstown.
Friday 27th February 2004, Day 167/366 - Dunedin, New Zealand to Invercargill, New Zealand.
Bought a couple of cheesy tapes to play in the cassette deck. There is something to be said to listening to '2 Unlimited' and others 90's tat on a road trip.
Out of Dunedin we took the Southern Scenic Route. We stopped off at Kaka Point and then Nugget Point. At Nugget Point we walked out to the lighthouse that overlooks the sealions playing down below on the crumbling land stacks. This was a definite tour highlight.
Nugget Point
We continued to Sandy Bay where apparently you can hang out with the sealions. Following Liz's directions we made our way down unmade roads, through cow fields, opening the fields gates along the way. It felt kind of strange, but she was adamant that it was the right way. When we got to the beach there were no signs of the sealions or anything for that matter. As we made our way back we saw the 'Private Property' sign on the first gate we'd gone through. Turns out that it wasn't the right way. No wonder the cows were looking at us so strangely. Sorry for any distress I may have caused the cows.
Further down 'Catlins Coast' we saw the sign for the real Sandy Bay, but we didn't take it, we just carried on to Purakanaui Falls. These falls aren't huge, but are very picturesque.
Bought a couple of cheesy tapes to play in the cassette deck. There is something to be said to listening to '2 Unlimited' and others 90's tat on a road trip.
Out of Dunedin we took the Southern Scenic Route. We stopped off at Kaka Point and then Nugget Point. At Nugget Point we walked out to the lighthouse that overlooks the sealions playing down below on the crumbling land stacks. This was a definite tour highlight.
We continued to Sandy Bay where apparently you can hang out with the sealions. Following Liz's directions we made our way down unmade roads, through cow fields, opening the fields gates along the way. It felt kind of strange, but she was adamant that it was the right way. When we got to the beach there were no signs of the sealions or anything for that matter. As we made our way back we saw the 'Private Property' sign on the first gate we'd gone through. Turns out that it wasn't the right way. No wonder the cows were looking at us so strangely. Sorry for any distress I may have caused the cows.
Further down 'Catlins Coast' we saw the sign for the real Sandy Bay, but we didn't take it, we just carried on to Purakanaui Falls. These falls aren't huge, but are very picturesque.
Thursday 26th February 2004, Day 166/366 - Timaru, New Zealand to Dunedin, New Zealand.
Around Timaru there are lots of instances of Maori rock art. We took a trip round to a few of them. It was nice to be off the beaten track, but unfortunately the art wasn't always clearly visible and in some cases had been graffitied and vandalised.
Next stop was Oamaru where we went to see the penguins, had a walk around the cliffs and down to the rocky beach.
The drive from Oamaru to the Moeraki Boulders was more stunning than the best bits of the Pacific Coast Highway in California. The Moeraki Boulders are like giant marbles that in one of those freaks of nature the ocean has eroded away. They are pretty spectacular.
We continued down to Dunedin where we found a room in the very pikey Statesman Hotel. It was one of those sleazy dives above a bar, but was pretty cool because I shared a beer with the English bar man, who happened to be a big Tottenham and cricket fan.
Had dinner in the Hungry Frenchman and one noticeable difference since I've seen in New Zealand is the slow service in restaurants. Tipping is not considered normal in New Zealand. Maybe that is a factor.
Around Timaru there are lots of instances of Maori rock art. We took a trip round to a few of them. It was nice to be off the beaten track, but unfortunately the art wasn't always clearly visible and in some cases had been graffitied and vandalised.
Next stop was Oamaru where we went to see the penguins, had a walk around the cliffs and down to the rocky beach.
The drive from Oamaru to the Moeraki Boulders was more stunning than the best bits of the Pacific Coast Highway in California. The Moeraki Boulders are like giant marbles that in one of those freaks of nature the ocean has eroded away. They are pretty spectacular.
We continued down to Dunedin where we found a room in the very pikey Statesman Hotel. It was one of those sleazy dives above a bar, but was pretty cool because I shared a beer with the English bar man, who happened to be a big Tottenham and cricket fan.
Had dinner in the Hungry Frenchman and one noticeable difference since I've seen in New Zealand is the slow service in restaurants. Tipping is not considered normal in New Zealand. Maybe that is a factor.
Wednesday 25th February 2004, Day 165/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand to Timaru, New Zealand.
Went hunting for a car today. It’s very easy to do here in NZ. 2nd hand cars tend to be cheap. Christchurch has a number of auction houses and 1 specialist backpackers auction. The buy and sell paper has many cars advertised, as do the hostels and regular haunts for travellers. Many of the car dealers also sell cheap cars. I ended up buying a 1986 Toyota Corona 2.0 GTS. It's done 211,000 kms, is automatic, has electric everything, power steering and air con. Cost NZ$ 2,500. You don't need to have insurance to drive in NZ, but your car needs to be WOF'd (MOT'd) and registered. The garage sorted me out with those.
When I got back to the digs we decided to embark on a road trip. We headed south down the east coast passing the big fish in Rakaia and ended up in Timaru.
The mean machine - Baramewe
Just a funny sign
and another
Went hunting for a car today. It’s very easy to do here in NZ. 2nd hand cars tend to be cheap. Christchurch has a number of auction houses and 1 specialist backpackers auction. The buy and sell paper has many cars advertised, as do the hostels and regular haunts for travellers. Many of the car dealers also sell cheap cars. I ended up buying a 1986 Toyota Corona 2.0 GTS. It's done 211,000 kms, is automatic, has electric everything, power steering and air con. Cost NZ$ 2,500. You don't need to have insurance to drive in NZ, but your car needs to be WOF'd (MOT'd) and registered. The garage sorted me out with those.
When I got back to the digs we decided to embark on a road trip. We headed south down the east coast passing the big fish in Rakaia and ended up in Timaru.
Monday 23rd February 2004, Day 163/366 - Christchurch, New Zealand.
Went and did some shopping for some essentials as I've been out of the loop for a while, then I went for an explore. On leaving the hotel I knew immediately that I would love Christchurch. It has all the character that most of the US cities didn't. There's a Cathedral Square, a town crier, botanical gardens, parks with statues and streams meandering through them with punts on, an oasis of serenity where you can sit and watch the world go by. I couldn't sit on a secluded beach all day, but I could sit in this park and watch the old fellas playing chess, the seagulls, the tourists or the bible basher.
Christchurch Cathedral
There was even an 'evil' Starbucks, but that fitted in tastefully. The panhandler just seemed to add to the character.
It was strange to see people driving on the right side of the road and normal size portions in McDonalds. There was even a shoe repairers. It struck me that I hadn't seen a shoe repairers in the US. It's strange the things you miss. There was no root beer so I've had to go with ginger beer.
I bought a sleep sack today. I think they are more important to bring away than a sleeping bag. A lot of the hostels don't allow sleeping bags, but a sleep sack will keep you off the grotty mattresses.
In the evening I made contact with Hawaiian (farmer's tan) Liz, who very kindly offered me space in her student digs while I'm on the south island. It'll be nice to have a base to explore the island from and I'll get to cook my own food too. Much cheapness required.
Went and did some shopping for some essentials as I've been out of the loop for a while, then I went for an explore. On leaving the hotel I knew immediately that I would love Christchurch. It has all the character that most of the US cities didn't. There's a Cathedral Square, a town crier, botanical gardens, parks with statues and streams meandering through them with punts on, an oasis of serenity where you can sit and watch the world go by. I couldn't sit on a secluded beach all day, but I could sit in this park and watch the old fellas playing chess, the seagulls, the tourists or the bible basher.
There was even an 'evil' Starbucks, but that fitted in tastefully. The panhandler just seemed to add to the character.
It was strange to see people driving on the right side of the road and normal size portions in McDonalds. There was even a shoe repairers. It struck me that I hadn't seen a shoe repairers in the US. It's strange the things you miss. There was no root beer so I've had to go with ginger beer.
I bought a sleep sack today. I think they are more important to bring away than a sleeping bag. A lot of the hostels don't allow sleeping bags, but a sleep sack will keep you off the grotty mattresses.
In the evening I made contact with Hawaiian (farmer's tan) Liz, who very kindly offered me space in her student digs while I'm on the south island. It'll be nice to have a base to explore the island from and I'll get to cook my own food too. Much cheapness required.
Sunday 22nd February 2004, Day 162/366 - Nadi, Viti Levu, Fiji to Christchurch, New Zealand.
The night was too hot, there were too many mozzies and too many excitable young australians so I checked out at 2.30, got a taxi (F$5) and spent 3 uncomfortable hours in the airport waiting for check in to open. At least they had air conditioning.
In the taxi on the way back to the airport, along the same route I'd taken just 7 days before I realised just how much I'd learnt that week. They were 7 of the longest and most trying (mentally) days of my life. I would have liked to have seen more of the main island and the islands, but I'm worn out. I'll come back with more confidence and experience to explore further and better prepared. It's an easy place to travel around. There are travel agents everywhere, just be sure that you know what you want to do and see.
I was on the 8.40 to Auckland. The flight took 2 hours 50 minutes. The film was 'Don't go breaking my heart' which really didn't hold my attention. We arrived in Auckland at 12.40 there's a 1 hour difference due to daylight savings so now I'm 13 hours ahead of you.
Took ages to get through customs because of a computer malfunction and they are very thorough in checking for meats and flowers that may damage NZ's agriculture.
I walked over to the domestic terminal for a transfer to Christchurch costing NZ$ 110 with Qantas. Doesn't leave till 16.30 so I got to watch Parkinson and AB Fab, which was a little strange after being in America for so long. The flight took 1 hour 20 mins.
When I got to Christchurch I checked myself into the Crowne Plaza NZ$180 as I felt the need to treat myself, to a bath especially. The airport transfer cost NZ$14.
My first impressions were that NZ is very green, not very busy and there's a nice sprawl to the cities. The south has less inhabitants and on the western coast has mountains and glaciers. The land was flat around Christchurch. There are loads of sheep and pig farms. Auckland felt like a big airport. Christchurch didn't. The temperature was 32 degs in Auckland and 17 degs in Christchurch.
The night was too hot, there were too many mozzies and too many excitable young australians so I checked out at 2.30, got a taxi (F$5) and spent 3 uncomfortable hours in the airport waiting for check in to open. At least they had air conditioning.
In the taxi on the way back to the airport, along the same route I'd taken just 7 days before I realised just how much I'd learnt that week. They were 7 of the longest and most trying (mentally) days of my life. I would have liked to have seen more of the main island and the islands, but I'm worn out. I'll come back with more confidence and experience to explore further and better prepared. It's an easy place to travel around. There are travel agents everywhere, just be sure that you know what you want to do and see.
I was on the 8.40 to Auckland. The flight took 2 hours 50 minutes. The film was 'Don't go breaking my heart' which really didn't hold my attention. We arrived in Auckland at 12.40 there's a 1 hour difference due to daylight savings so now I'm 13 hours ahead of you.
Took ages to get through customs because of a computer malfunction and they are very thorough in checking for meats and flowers that may damage NZ's agriculture.
I walked over to the domestic terminal for a transfer to Christchurch costing NZ$ 110 with Qantas. Doesn't leave till 16.30 so I got to watch Parkinson and AB Fab, which was a little strange after being in America for so long. The flight took 1 hour 20 mins.
When I got to Christchurch I checked myself into the Crowne Plaza NZ$180 as I felt the need to treat myself, to a bath especially. The airport transfer cost NZ$14.
My first impressions were that NZ is very green, not very busy and there's a nice sprawl to the cities. The south has less inhabitants and on the western coast has mountains and glaciers. The land was flat around Christchurch. There are loads of sheep and pig farms. Auckland felt like a big airport. Christchurch didn't. The temperature was 32 degs in Auckland and 17 degs in Christchurch.
Saturday 21st February 2004, Day 161/366 - Beachcomber Island, Fiji Island to Nadi, Viti Levu, Fiji
For backpackers Beachcomber Island is like being treated like royalty. It's more of a holiday resort than a backpackers location, but it does have dorm beds, excellent food and nightly entertainment from the polynesian dancers and the far from invigorating band, whose entire repertoire consists of 80's slow numbers sung in Fiji time. Between each song they have a 5 minute break where they just stand there looking spaced. Occasionally 1 of the members will go to start the next song, but the others will just not bother playing along. If they were paid by the number of songs they played they certainly won't be rich men. Everytime they make an announcement they always say 'Bula, to the bar'. It's a surreal world that I'm living in.
If you're not into drinking and listening to the band then you could always do one of the numerous water sports on offer, play volleyball or touch rugby, go snorkelling, do a diving course, have a massage, play crazy golf or just sit in the hot tub. I plumped for sitting in the bar, reading and chilling mainly. I even managed to finish my 15th book 'The autobiography of MLK Jr.' edited by Clayborne Carson. The editor made the book from the papers that the King family kept from notes that MLK made at the time. I didn't know much about MLK before I came away, but now i understand what a great man he was, very clever and well educated and how many times did he go to prison?
Note to Andy H, I met 2 more Norwegians and they confirmed that 1 Nordic mile = 10 kilometre's. They can't all be having me on can they?
Whilst in Fiji I've spoken to lots of people about NZ and I've now changed my flights to leave 2 days earlier. I feel I've done my time in Fiji. A lot of the conversations about NZ are about which bungy jump you've done. I'm sure NZ has more to offer than that and I intend to find out. What everyone did say was that there was more to do in the south island. I can't actually change my RTW ticket to fly direct to Christchurch, but apparently the transfers are relatively cheap.
I took the early boat F$41 (11.30) back to the mainland. Beachcomber drops you back at the hotel you are checked into. I stayed at the Nadi Bay Hotel F$20. Nadi is nicer in the sunlight, but still a dump and not somewhere that I want to spend any amount of time. It was nice to kick back for a few hours at the hotel, go for a swim, write some postcards and read a book.
I turned in early for the night as i had a 5.00 start to get to the airport. At 20.30 the feejee experience bus arrived and 6 young and excitable aussie girls ended up in my dorm. They spent 2 noisy hours getting ready and then went out on the beer. I'm so glad I didn't do the Feejee Experience. I'm too old for all that.
For backpackers Beachcomber Island is like being treated like royalty. It's more of a holiday resort than a backpackers location, but it does have dorm beds, excellent food and nightly entertainment from the polynesian dancers and the far from invigorating band, whose entire repertoire consists of 80's slow numbers sung in Fiji time. Between each song they have a 5 minute break where they just stand there looking spaced. Occasionally 1 of the members will go to start the next song, but the others will just not bother playing along. If they were paid by the number of songs they played they certainly won't be rich men. Everytime they make an announcement they always say 'Bula, to the bar'. It's a surreal world that I'm living in.
If you're not into drinking and listening to the band then you could always do one of the numerous water sports on offer, play volleyball or touch rugby, go snorkelling, do a diving course, have a massage, play crazy golf or just sit in the hot tub. I plumped for sitting in the bar, reading and chilling mainly. I even managed to finish my 15th book 'The autobiography of MLK Jr.' edited by Clayborne Carson. The editor made the book from the papers that the King family kept from notes that MLK made at the time. I didn't know much about MLK before I came away, but now i understand what a great man he was, very clever and well educated and how many times did he go to prison?
Note to Andy H, I met 2 more Norwegians and they confirmed that 1 Nordic mile = 10 kilometre's. They can't all be having me on can they?
Whilst in Fiji I've spoken to lots of people about NZ and I've now changed my flights to leave 2 days earlier. I feel I've done my time in Fiji. A lot of the conversations about NZ are about which bungy jump you've done. I'm sure NZ has more to offer than that and I intend to find out. What everyone did say was that there was more to do in the south island. I can't actually change my RTW ticket to fly direct to Christchurch, but apparently the transfers are relatively cheap.
I took the early boat F$41 (11.30) back to the mainland. Beachcomber drops you back at the hotel you are checked into. I stayed at the Nadi Bay Hotel F$20. Nadi is nicer in the sunlight, but still a dump and not somewhere that I want to spend any amount of time. It was nice to kick back for a few hours at the hotel, go for a swim, write some postcards and read a book.
I turned in early for the night as i had a 5.00 start to get to the airport. At 20.30 the feejee experience bus arrived and 6 young and excitable aussie girls ended up in my dorm. They spent 2 noisy hours getting ready and then went out on the beer. I'm so glad I didn't do the Feejee Experience. I'm too old for all that.
Wednesday, March 03, 2004
Thursday 19th February 2004, Day 159/366 - Mana, Fiji Islands to Beachcomber Island, Fiji Island.
Today Roger and I are transferring to Beachcomber Island for 2 nights. In the words of Eastwood "if you want to get laid go to Beachcomber". On Mana there are 3 big boats a day that transfer you to the other islands. You can also catch little ones, but I'd like to keep my stuff dry if possible. The big boat transfer costs F$41.
I'm not totally sad to be leaving Mana. I'm glad I came and I think I got an insight into how Fijians live, but I've had my fill and I need a shower. I'm even considering changing my flight again to leave Fiji early. I think the saying goes 'good times, not long times'.
Everything is hit and miss with booking things in Fiji. You are never sure if you have got through to the person that you are talking to, but somehow you always get where you want to be. It can be intensely frustrating.
On the boat the captain announces "Who's going to beachcomber?" it was like him saying "Who wants to get laid?". Only me and Roger then. I would just like to point out that that is not why i'm coming here, it's supposed to be quite nice, just a bit of a party place.
We'd spent 3 hours on the boat island hopping with dodgy rum hangovers.
On arrival at Beachcomber we met up with 2 of Rogers aussie mates and immediately started drinking at 2 PM. Beachcomber is a backpacker resort as opposed to a hostel. It has an 100 bed dorm and costs F$77 a night including food. The food is much better, but this doesn't have the feel of travelling. You also don't need money on the island as you can charge everything to you room/bed! That's a very dangerous situation.
We started on Fiji bitter, progressed to drambuie, then cocktails, margaritas before ending on FB again. It's expensive here, but there's not much else to do. We even threw a couple of cava's in on the way.
Cava is supposed to be a ceremonial drink which basically looks like dirty water and taste the same. It's a root that is left in a muddy puddle and you drink the residue. It has a similar effect to narcotics and after a while makes your lips and tongue go numb and you sleep like a baby.
For a party place it was a bit lame. It wasn't so much 18-30 it was more 16-18. Plenty of wankers here. This isn't visiting Fiji and seeing how Fijians live. It was fun, but I'm glad I went to Mana first.
The four of us were all displaying our red sox (sun burnt feet), but one thing bothered me about Roger and that was he carried about a PINK bottle of after sun with him. He's from Cumbria, but lives in NYC and after 5 years there he frazzled in no time at all, even through the clouds. The pink stuff helped him. The other concern was when he returned from one of his trips to the bar he says. 'You see those water jugs up there, well I've seen people put lemon in them before, but never cucumber.' Um are you sure it's not lime maybe. This guy works in a bar as well.
Today Roger and I are transferring to Beachcomber Island for 2 nights. In the words of Eastwood "if you want to get laid go to Beachcomber". On Mana there are 3 big boats a day that transfer you to the other islands. You can also catch little ones, but I'd like to keep my stuff dry if possible. The big boat transfer costs F$41.
I'm not totally sad to be leaving Mana. I'm glad I came and I think I got an insight into how Fijians live, but I've had my fill and I need a shower. I'm even considering changing my flight again to leave Fiji early. I think the saying goes 'good times, not long times'.
Everything is hit and miss with booking things in Fiji. You are never sure if you have got through to the person that you are talking to, but somehow you always get where you want to be. It can be intensely frustrating.
On the boat the captain announces "Who's going to beachcomber?" it was like him saying "Who wants to get laid?". Only me and Roger then. I would just like to point out that that is not why i'm coming here, it's supposed to be quite nice, just a bit of a party place.
We'd spent 3 hours on the boat island hopping with dodgy rum hangovers.
On arrival at Beachcomber we met up with 2 of Rogers aussie mates and immediately started drinking at 2 PM. Beachcomber is a backpacker resort as opposed to a hostel. It has an 100 bed dorm and costs F$77 a night including food. The food is much better, but this doesn't have the feel of travelling. You also don't need money on the island as you can charge everything to you room/bed! That's a very dangerous situation.
We started on Fiji bitter, progressed to drambuie, then cocktails, margaritas before ending on FB again. It's expensive here, but there's not much else to do. We even threw a couple of cava's in on the way.
Cava is supposed to be a ceremonial drink which basically looks like dirty water and taste the same. It's a root that is left in a muddy puddle and you drink the residue. It has a similar effect to narcotics and after a while makes your lips and tongue go numb and you sleep like a baby.
For a party place it was a bit lame. It wasn't so much 18-30 it was more 16-18. Plenty of wankers here. This isn't visiting Fiji and seeing how Fijians live. It was fun, but I'm glad I went to Mana first.
The four of us were all displaying our red sox (sun burnt feet), but one thing bothered me about Roger and that was he carried about a PINK bottle of after sun with him. He's from Cumbria, but lives in NYC and after 5 years there he frazzled in no time at all, even through the clouds. The pink stuff helped him. The other concern was when he returned from one of his trips to the bar he says. 'You see those water jugs up there, well I've seen people put lemon in them before, but never cucumber.' Um are you sure it's not lime maybe. This guy works in a bar as well.
Wednesday 18th February 2004, Day 158/366 - Mana, Fiji Islands.
Went island hopping on a tiny boat with Han, Shea, Roger, Peter and Guy for F$35.
The first stop is the 'Plantation Island Resort' where we made use of this expensive island resorts facilities, by having a dip in the pool. It's been ages since I could have a decent wash so this was nice. It was made even more enjoyable, by watching Guy try to dive. He was terrible. Does anyone remember the game mousetrap? If you do then Guy dived just like the bloke from that. Praying hands at his chest and bent knees. He kept that form all the way into the pool. Priceless.
Next resort was 'Musket Cove' where we had a barbecue.
On the way back they left us at a deserted beach on Malolo Island. Han did her best impression of a bond girl. She was Ursula Andress and Halle Berry all rolled into one.
Finally it was back to Mana to enjoy my last night there and the beautiful sunset. On the agenda tonight was crab racing. I finished 2nd and 3rd (with the aussie crab 'Stephen Larkham' and the Fijian 'Bula Boy', Johnny Wilkinson won) and then we went to the beach to sit round a fire and sing Hotel California. It was the only song the locals knew and they were all singing different verses. It didn't matter.
The weather, the people, the food and the times all got better as the days passed on Mana.
The beautiful last sunset on Mana
Went island hopping on a tiny boat with Han, Shea, Roger, Peter and Guy for F$35.
The first stop is the 'Plantation Island Resort' where we made use of this expensive island resorts facilities, by having a dip in the pool. It's been ages since I could have a decent wash so this was nice. It was made even more enjoyable, by watching Guy try to dive. He was terrible. Does anyone remember the game mousetrap? If you do then Guy dived just like the bloke from that. Praying hands at his chest and bent knees. He kept that form all the way into the pool. Priceless.
Next resort was 'Musket Cove' where we had a barbecue.
On the way back they left us at a deserted beach on Malolo Island. Han did her best impression of a bond girl. She was Ursula Andress and Halle Berry all rolled into one.
Finally it was back to Mana to enjoy my last night there and the beautiful sunset. On the agenda tonight was crab racing. I finished 2nd and 3rd (with the aussie crab 'Stephen Larkham' and the Fijian 'Bula Boy', Johnny Wilkinson won) and then we went to the beach to sit round a fire and sing Hotel California. It was the only song the locals knew and they were all singing different verses. It didn't matter.
The weather, the people, the food and the times all got better as the days passed on Mana.
Tuesday 17th February 2004, Day 157/366 - Mana, Fiji Islands.
For a change the sun is shining so we took a walk right around the outside of the island. The island has 2 hostel next to each other and the F$300 a night Mana Island Resort. The walk round the island takes 2 hours, not because it's a big island, but because walking through sand, wading in the ocean and clambering around rocky headlands all in Fijian time takes a long time.
Today I'm beginning to understand what Eastwood meant by paradise and a few more people arrived from the mainland. The water was so nice that I spent too long in it and got fried by the sun. I knew I was frying, but I couldn't help but enjoy the ocean.
The beautiful beach at Mana
Tomorrow nights' dinner on Mana!!!
In the evening we were treated to polynesian dancing including Luke's terrific fire dance. We were also taught the bula dance which reminded me of barn dances at school and was a mix between the macarena and saturday night with the pelvic thrusts from the time warp. It gave the locals a cheap thrill to see a load of red europeans making pratt's of themselves.
For a change the sun is shining so we took a walk right around the outside of the island. The island has 2 hostel next to each other and the F$300 a night Mana Island Resort. The walk round the island takes 2 hours, not because it's a big island, but because walking through sand, wading in the ocean and clambering around rocky headlands all in Fijian time takes a long time.
Today I'm beginning to understand what Eastwood meant by paradise and a few more people arrived from the mainland. The water was so nice that I spent too long in it and got fried by the sun. I knew I was frying, but I couldn't help but enjoy the ocean.
In the evening we were treated to polynesian dancing including Luke's terrific fire dance. We were also taught the bula dance which reminded me of barn dances at school and was a mix between the macarena and saturday night with the pelvic thrusts from the time warp. It gave the locals a cheap thrill to see a load of red europeans making pratt's of themselves.
Monday 16th February 2004, Day 156/366 - Mana, Fiji Islands.
Happy Birthday Stivsy.
Just for a change it's pissing it down. I can see me counting the days till I leave.
The dorm is 20 bed mixed dorm right in the middle of the islanders village.
It's a strange feeling being stuck on a small island in the middle of the pacific ocean. All you can see is other small islands and lots of ocean.
Everyone is pretty miserable and I miss the camaraderie from Hawaii and the chuffing mozzies are driving me crazy. You can use credit cards even on this small and rather backward island, but they charge 5%.
They do arrange daily activities, but they've mainly been cancelled due to the weather. The excitement of the day was going to see the baby sharks feeding off the reef, but even they couldn't be bothered to turn up.
Lots of the hostellers have headed back to the mainland due to the weather. Well if they're gonna be miserable then they can go for all I care. I'm gonna stick it out.
In the evening the food was better and the islands school put on a concert for us which was very cool.
My first impressions of the little bit of Fiji that I've seen are that it's very green and lush, probably due to all the rain they've had recently, that has also affected the colour of the water. It's very run down. The islands are the place to be. The Fijians are very friendly. They all say 'Bula Mate' as you walk past and they all want to talk about sport, mainly rugby and football. If the Fijians were any more laid back they'd be on their heads. They have a thing called Fiji time which means that if something is due to start at 10 am Fiji time, it could start at 9,10, 11 or whenever they can be bothered. Checkout however is at 10am (English time). They also sell normal chocolate (Dairy Milk) in the shops and the Queens head is on the money.
Happy Birthday Stivsy.
Just for a change it's pissing it down. I can see me counting the days till I leave.
The dorm is 20 bed mixed dorm right in the middle of the islanders village.
It's a strange feeling being stuck on a small island in the middle of the pacific ocean. All you can see is other small islands and lots of ocean.
Everyone is pretty miserable and I miss the camaraderie from Hawaii and the chuffing mozzies are driving me crazy. You can use credit cards even on this small and rather backward island, but they charge 5%.
They do arrange daily activities, but they've mainly been cancelled due to the weather. The excitement of the day was going to see the baby sharks feeding off the reef, but even they couldn't be bothered to turn up.
Lots of the hostellers have headed back to the mainland due to the weather. Well if they're gonna be miserable then they can go for all I care. I'm gonna stick it out.
In the evening the food was better and the islands school put on a concert for us which was very cool.
My first impressions of the little bit of Fiji that I've seen are that it's very green and lush, probably due to all the rain they've had recently, that has also affected the colour of the water. It's very run down. The islands are the place to be. The Fijians are very friendly. They all say 'Bula Mate' as you walk past and they all want to talk about sport, mainly rugby and football. If the Fijians were any more laid back they'd be on their heads. They have a thing called Fiji time which means that if something is due to start at 10 am Fiji time, it could start at 9,10, 11 or whenever they can be bothered. Checkout however is at 10am (English time). They also sell normal chocolate (Dairy Milk) in the shops and the Queens head is on the money.
Sunday 15th February 2004, Day 155/366 - Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii to Mana, Fiji Islands.
I've no idea where Saturday the 14th of February 2004 went. Our flight was delayed in Honolulu while they resolved a technical issue with the plane. They wanted to off load passengers, to lighten the plane as they were worried the pilots may run out of hours. I volunteered as I haven't booked any accommodation in Fiji and most other people had connections to make. In the end they didn't need us to off load as they thought they could make it!
It turns they couldn't make it and the plans were further scuppered by the weather in Fiji, a cyclone apparently. We ended up having to stop in Apia, Samoa. They had to fly a new plane and crew. After 2 hours on the ground in Apia it took 1 hour 35 mins to get to Nadi, Fiji.
On the the first flight I watched my new favourite movie 'Radio'. On the second plane I was trying to decide where to stay. I want to see Mana Island, Beachcomber Island and Nanana I Ru Island. I'll just play it by ear. I considered doing the Feejee experience, but I think I'll just make my own way after meeting some of the kids doing the experience in the departure lounge.
It's my 1st time in the southern hemisphere and you know what it doesn't feel any different, just warmer. I'm now 12 hours ahead.
From what I saw Samoa it was very nice. Arrived 6 hours late in Nadi at 12.00. The weather was rainy and windy, but humid, but its a good day because Fleet won for the first time in months.
When you clear customs there are lots of people waiting around to book you in to the island resorts. It was a very slick operation within about 15 minutes I had my next 10 days planned out. I'm glad I did it as now I won't be wasting any days.
They arranged my taxi to the marina (F$30) where I was to transfer to the island of Mana. At the dock I got all the horror stories of sea sickness and cyclones. The 90 minute transfer to Mana costs F$56. There was a massive storm came in as I was about to board so this could get icky. It's been a long day and after 2 turbulent flights this is the last thing I need.
As it happened I managed to keep my breakfast down. I can't say the same for all the other passengers. Good luck to Mx on her cruise.
Staying at Ratu Kini's for F$45 including meals. Feel like I've been stiffed. Dinner was very basic and accommodation has no hot water and the electricity is sporadic. I'm not sure what the meat was but there are a few dogs running around. Maybe there are one less than there was yesterday. It's also pissing it down.
Eastwood told me that this was paradise and that Mana was her favorite place in Fiji. It feels far from that right now. Let me get some sleep and see in the morning.
I've no idea where Saturday the 14th of February 2004 went. Our flight was delayed in Honolulu while they resolved a technical issue with the plane. They wanted to off load passengers, to lighten the plane as they were worried the pilots may run out of hours. I volunteered as I haven't booked any accommodation in Fiji and most other people had connections to make. In the end they didn't need us to off load as they thought they could make it!
It turns they couldn't make it and the plans were further scuppered by the weather in Fiji, a cyclone apparently. We ended up having to stop in Apia, Samoa. They had to fly a new plane and crew. After 2 hours on the ground in Apia it took 1 hour 35 mins to get to Nadi, Fiji.
On the the first flight I watched my new favourite movie 'Radio'. On the second plane I was trying to decide where to stay. I want to see Mana Island, Beachcomber Island and Nanana I Ru Island. I'll just play it by ear. I considered doing the Feejee experience, but I think I'll just make my own way after meeting some of the kids doing the experience in the departure lounge.
It's my 1st time in the southern hemisphere and you know what it doesn't feel any different, just warmer. I'm now 12 hours ahead.
From what I saw Samoa it was very nice. Arrived 6 hours late in Nadi at 12.00. The weather was rainy and windy, but humid, but its a good day because Fleet won for the first time in months.
When you clear customs there are lots of people waiting around to book you in to the island resorts. It was a very slick operation within about 15 minutes I had my next 10 days planned out. I'm glad I did it as now I won't be wasting any days.
They arranged my taxi to the marina (F$30) where I was to transfer to the island of Mana. At the dock I got all the horror stories of sea sickness and cyclones. The 90 minute transfer to Mana costs F$56. There was a massive storm came in as I was about to board so this could get icky. It's been a long day and after 2 turbulent flights this is the last thing I need.
As it happened I managed to keep my breakfast down. I can't say the same for all the other passengers. Good luck to Mx on her cruise.
Staying at Ratu Kini's for F$45 including meals. Feel like I've been stiffed. Dinner was very basic and accommodation has no hot water and the electricity is sporadic. I'm not sure what the meat was but there are a few dogs running around. Maybe there are one less than there was yesterday. It's also pissing it down.
Eastwood told me that this was paradise and that Mana was her favorite place in Fiji. It feels far from that right now. Let me get some sleep and see in the morning.
Friday 13th February 2004, Day 153/366 - Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii.
Got into a cycle of drinking too much and too often in Waikiki. Basically I enjoyed myself muchly. I guess you can tell how much fun I've had coz of the lack of reading I've done.
I met some great people over the last 2 weeks. Brandy from Arizona, Rich from Seattle now Maui, Tom from Watford, Dave from Brum and Vincent from Sydney.
So I'm back to Honolulu Airport after 2 fantastic weeks and 5 long months in America. I'm leaving with 79 cents in my pocket. Its fair to say that the Bloobuoy funds have run dry. Yep I've spent the best part of 8k in 5 great months, but does it mean the end of the tour. No, coz that's why credit cards were invented and the experience is more important than the money, right? However all donations would be gratefully received.
The Hawaiian words I learnt were Aloha - Hello and Mahola - Thanks. I'm such a linguist.
Got into a cycle of drinking too much and too often in Waikiki. Basically I enjoyed myself muchly. I guess you can tell how much fun I've had coz of the lack of reading I've done.
I met some great people over the last 2 weeks. Brandy from Arizona, Rich from Seattle now Maui, Tom from Watford, Dave from Brum and Vincent from Sydney.
So I'm back to Honolulu Airport after 2 fantastic weeks and 5 long months in America. I'm leaving with 79 cents in my pocket. Its fair to say that the Bloobuoy funds have run dry. Yep I've spent the best part of 8k in 5 great months, but does it mean the end of the tour. No, coz that's why credit cards were invented and the experience is more important than the money, right? However all donations would be gratefully received.
The Hawaiian words I learnt were Aloha - Hello and Mahola - Thanks. I'm such a linguist.
Thursday 12th February 2004, Day 152/366 - Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii.
Surf wasn't up as hoped so Mx and I had a spot of breakfast and then headed to Pearl Harbour. A few tips. The trip to the USS Arizona is free, but arrive early as there are only a certain number of trips a day. You can also take a trip around the battleship USS Missouri, which is where the Japanese signed the treaty at the end of the war. That costs $16 so we didn't bother. Another thing we didn't bother to do was the $8 tour of the submarine the USS Bowfin which is known as the Pearl Harbour Avenger. They don't allow day packs, fanny packs, diaper bags or the like on the boats so either leave them at home or you can store them for $2.
It's my last day in Hawaii and in the USA so Vincent, Keith, Liz and I hit the local hotspot 'Da Dawg House' as we had on the previous 4 nights. It's a local bar which is empty, but lively and we could play darts and pool and drink Corona for $2.50.
Surf wasn't up as hoped so Mx and I had a spot of breakfast and then headed to Pearl Harbour. A few tips. The trip to the USS Arizona is free, but arrive early as there are only a certain number of trips a day. You can also take a trip around the battleship USS Missouri, which is where the Japanese signed the treaty at the end of the war. That costs $16 so we didn't bother. Another thing we didn't bother to do was the $8 tour of the submarine the USS Bowfin which is known as the Pearl Harbour Avenger. They don't allow day packs, fanny packs, diaper bags or the like on the boats so either leave them at home or you can store them for $2.
It's my last day in Hawaii and in the USA so Vincent, Keith, Liz and I hit the local hotspot 'Da Dawg House' as we had on the previous 4 nights. It's a local bar which is empty, but lively and we could play darts and pool and drink Corona for $2.50.
Wednesday 11th February 2004, Day 151/366 - Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii.
Went to Honolulu zoo ($6) which was cheap, but in pretty poor condition. Still plenty to see.
At one with the goat
It was nice of my Dad to make an appearance at the zoo. It was even nicer of the keeper to give him a brush
We then took the free shuttle to Hilo Hatties in Honolulu. Hilo Hatties is a big Hawaiian store. Basically there's loads of sea shells and flowery shirts.
Walked back to Waikiki and on the way stopped off for a pint in Hooters. Its a sad day, as this will be my last visit to Hooters on this tour. In honour of the occasion I bought the obligatory Hooters T Shirt. When I was browsing through the sizes the Hooters girl says 'We go right up to size 2XL.' I didn't think that I'd put on that much weight. Bless her.
Also stopped in at the cinema to watch the new Owen Wilson film 'Big Bounce' as it's set in Hawaii. What can I say about it except for 'it's crap'. The acting and directing was really poor and they didn't even do justice to the beauty of Hawaii.
Mx arrived back in Honolulu, but "couldn't" get in the hostel.
In the evening I went for a beer and pizza with Keith and Vincent from the hostel.
The Hustler
I've had a flashback to last week at Makena beach on Maui. We drove over on the hostel mini bus and you obviously get chatting to people. I spoke with Chris and his wife (a normal couple in their 40's from Colorado). You may remember that Makena had a big beach and a little beach. The little beach was for general frolicking and nudity. When I walked over there I didn't know where to put my eyes, but I do recall seeing Chris (a large gentlemen) in all his starkers glory. He just gave me a little wave and I quickly carried on, on my way knowing just a little bit too much more about Chris than I wanted to. To say that it was an awkward moment would be an understatement.
I also forgot it was a leap year so I get an extra day away this year.
A MAN IS LYING IN BED IN THE HOSPITAL WITH AN OXYGEN MASK OVER HIS MOUTH. A YOUNG NURSE APPEARS TO SPONGE HIS HANDS AND FEET.
"NURSE", HE MUMBLES FROM BEHIND THE MASK, "ARE MY TESTICLES BLACK?"
EMBARRASSED, THE YOUNG NURSE REPLIES, "I DON'T KNOW, I'M ONLY HERE TO WASH YOUR HANDS AND FEET"
HE STRUGGLES AGAIN TO ASK, "NURSE, ARE MY TESTICLES BLACK?"
FINALLY, SHE PULLS BACK THE COVERS, RAISES HIS GOWN, HOLDS HIS PENIS IN ONE HAND AND HIS TESTICLES IN HER OTHER HAND AND TAKES A CLOSE LOOK, AND SAYS, "THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH THEM!"
FINALLY, THE MAN PULLS OFF HIS OXYGEN MASK AND REPLIES, "THAT WAS VERY NICE BUT, ARE... MY... TEST... RESULTS... BACK???"
Went to Honolulu zoo ($6) which was cheap, but in pretty poor condition. Still plenty to see.
We then took the free shuttle to Hilo Hatties in Honolulu. Hilo Hatties is a big Hawaiian store. Basically there's loads of sea shells and flowery shirts.
Walked back to Waikiki and on the way stopped off for a pint in Hooters. Its a sad day, as this will be my last visit to Hooters on this tour. In honour of the occasion I bought the obligatory Hooters T Shirt. When I was browsing through the sizes the Hooters girl says 'We go right up to size 2XL.' I didn't think that I'd put on that much weight. Bless her.
Also stopped in at the cinema to watch the new Owen Wilson film 'Big Bounce' as it's set in Hawaii. What can I say about it except for 'it's crap'. The acting and directing was really poor and they didn't even do justice to the beauty of Hawaii.
Mx arrived back in Honolulu, but "couldn't" get in the hostel.
In the evening I went for a beer and pizza with Keith and Vincent from the hostel.
I've had a flashback to last week at Makena beach on Maui. We drove over on the hostel mini bus and you obviously get chatting to people. I spoke with Chris and his wife (a normal couple in their 40's from Colorado). You may remember that Makena had a big beach and a little beach. The little beach was for general frolicking and nudity. When I walked over there I didn't know where to put my eyes, but I do recall seeing Chris (a large gentlemen) in all his starkers glory. He just gave me a little wave and I quickly carried on, on my way knowing just a little bit too much more about Chris than I wanted to. To say that it was an awkward moment would be an understatement.
I also forgot it was a leap year so I get an extra day away this year.
A MAN IS LYING IN BED IN THE HOSPITAL WITH AN OXYGEN MASK OVER HIS MOUTH. A YOUNG NURSE APPEARS TO SPONGE HIS HANDS AND FEET.
"NURSE", HE MUMBLES FROM BEHIND THE MASK, "ARE MY TESTICLES BLACK?"
EMBARRASSED, THE YOUNG NURSE REPLIES, "I DON'T KNOW, I'M ONLY HERE TO WASH YOUR HANDS AND FEET"
HE STRUGGLES AGAIN TO ASK, "NURSE, ARE MY TESTICLES BLACK?"
FINALLY, SHE PULLS BACK THE COVERS, RAISES HIS GOWN, HOLDS HIS PENIS IN ONE HAND AND HIS TESTICLES IN HER OTHER HAND AND TAKES A CLOSE LOOK, AND SAYS, "THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH THEM!"
FINALLY, THE MAN PULLS OFF HIS OXYGEN MASK AND REPLIES, "THAT WAS VERY NICE BUT, ARE... MY... TEST... RESULTS... BACK???"
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