Wednesday, July 21, 2004

Sunday 18th July 2004 - Day 308/366 - Kings Creek Station, Northern Territory to Yulara, Northern Territory.
 
Well sleeping in a swag is pretty interesting.  A swag is basically a canvas bag with a foam mattress in the bottom that you sleep out in the elements in.  It's surprisingly warm and comfortable until 6am comes and you have to get out of it and face the cold minus your sleeping bag.

We were straight into it from the start with a 3 hour hike around the rim of Kings Canyon.  It's quite hard going and bloody freezing, but lovely.  I'm going to find it so hard to acclimatize when I get back. 

The initial climb to the rim is called Heartbreak Hill.  In truth it's no harder than Chalky.  When I think back to how quickly we climbed climbed chalky after a skinful of thunderbird, being late for dinner and not having 90p for the bus fare. 

The Canyon is grand and it's well worth facing the elements.  The guides always point out that this is a canyon.  Canyon are formed by the movement of the earths plates.  Gorges are formed by rivers and therefore the Grand Canyon is actually a gorge.  Bloody Americans.

On the way to Uluru we had a 2 of the rear tires blow out on the bus.  I had to change the tire so we limped into Yulara on just your 3 back tyres. 

We saw fooluru, or Mount Connor.  It's on the road to Uluru and is often mistaken for the Rock.

We arrived at the rock just on sunset and it's mighty presence is immediately apparent.  It's collosal size like nothing else around.  It's like a big rock in the middle of the desert.  You can't take your eyes off it.  They reckon that only a third of the rock is exposed and it possibly goes 6km under ground.  More of a boulder really. 

We camped at Yulara resort which has been purpose built to help cope with the 300,000 annual visitors.
Saturday 17th July 2004 - Day 307/366 - Alice Springs, Northern Territory to Kings Creek Station, Northern Territory.
 
Rainbow Valley

Another day, another camping tour.  This time its a 3.5 day tour of the Red Centre again with Wayward.  I'm looking forward to it immensly apart from the fact that Alice Springs is the coldest place in Australia at the moment. 

First stop was an eccentric road house again.  This time it was in Stuarts Well to see Dinky the singing Dingo.  It's more of a howl really to some one hitting the keys on the piano.

We stopped at Rainbow Valley which is a colourful ridge caused by evaporation, erosion and the iron in the earth.  It's not so spectacular, but worth a look and a photo opportunity.

We setup camp at Kings Creek Station, near Kings Canyon.  Originally setup as a cattle station it now provides good camping facilities and the opportunity to take a camel, helicopter or quad bike ride. 

There were the normal first day uncertainties in the group.  I know the 3 canadian girls, who I think are stalking me and the Jap girl who was on my Kakadu and Darwin to Alice tour.  She's definately stalking me.  Thats the nature of Australia.  Also we've got a bird, Billy as our driver/guide.  She nice, but doesn't drink.
Friday 16th July 2004 - Day 306/366 - Alice Springs, Northern Territory.

Best hump ever!

I expected Alice to be an old town with wooden buildings and a dirt track going through it.  It's actually the second largest city in the northern territory although that isn't saying alot as the population is only 30000.  The main street is a pedestrian shopping precinct and obviously the town is a stop off for people heading to the Red Centre.

I went on a camel safari with the Canadian girls.  Australia actually has the largest number of camels in the world and exports them to the middle east among other places.  It's not unusual to see wild camel wondering around in the outback.  In fact your more likely to see them than Kangaroos.

This country is weird.  I went to see King Arthur at the cinema.  It's the first time I've ever experienced a heated cinema.  It's only 14c outside.  It's hardly freezing.  As for the movie don't bother going to see it.  I'm very bored of this type of Braveheart cum Gladiator movie.  It's been done before and better. 

The late nights and early mornings are really catching up with me, but it didn't stop me meeting Nicola and Heike for a drink.
Thursday 15th July 2004 - Day 305/366 - Wauchope, Northern Territory to Alice Springs, Northern Territory.
 
Live on your screens

A 6.30 start is not what is called for when you've been up until 3.30 drinking Bundy and Coke.  Yep we were up in the Road House drinking until it closed.  There were 7 of us and our guide and 3 truckers.  Much fun was hand dancing on the bar to the jukebox with the sulubrious clientelle.  When they kicked us out at 2 I complained and said we'd take our business elsewhere.  They said they were happy for me to do that, but reminded me we were 100kms from anywhere.  We settled for buying a few cans of Bundy and retiring to the camp fire. 

I was designated navigator today.  I'm not sure why a navigator is necessary on a 1500 kms road that has 2 turn offs on it.  1 to Queensland and the other to Western Australia.  I think it's just to keep Matt awake.

We stopped at Wycliffe Wells which is apparently the UFO capital of Oz.  The owners claim appear a little bit lacking in evidence when you consider that he is the only one to have spotted a UFO.  Anyway he's built a UFO landing site, so I guess he's just one more outback eccentric to add to the list.

We also had a stop at the tropic of Capricorn for no other reason than to say we did. 

At about noon our epic roadtrip ended. 

We had a particularly strange bunch this time.  I think it matters that it was quite a big group.  Basically the 4 brits drunk and the rest were pretty lame.

They were 2 young swiss girls and a young german who were very clicky and boring.  There was a French couple who kept sneaking of to the woods and were always in the front of the tucker queue.  There was a French girl who had a very unfortunate likeness to Ivan Drago.  They was a belgian girl with a black hairband who I never saw.  There was the Jap guy Hiro and Matchuko (from Kakadu), but they Engrish no good and they didn't do anything stupid either.  There was also a French Canadian and German young lesbian couple who were soooooooooo into each other.  There were 3 Canadians over here studying in Surfers Paradise.  They were too cool for us initially, but once warmed up 2 of them were good fun.  They were however the type of girls who go camping in Billabong T Shirts, White Ripcurl Pants and Roxy thongs.  To be fair though they weren't too precious they did get stuck in, but hated the aerial bombardment from the bats. We had The 2 sisters from Southampton who were game.  Heike whos the only German I know who hasn't got a weed in her $$$$.  She was the first one on the bar dancing.  Finally there was my mate Nicola from Manchester with the Black dreads.  I first spotted her in the hostel in Darwin and have been known to steal glow sticks from about her person in night clubs.  Such a nice girl.

I must make special mention of Matt our driver/guide.  He's a bloody legend, but not much of a guide.  He ended up buying our little group drinks out of the meal kitty.  On top of everything he cracked me up.  He managed to crack his head whilst manoeuvering about the trailer.  Having picked us up late and blaming a dead battery I saw that after all the truck didn't have a new battery.  He finally confessed that he was entertaining.  He picked up a dead snake.  He thought it was a python, but got the shock of his life when he realised it was venomous brown snake that still may have been alive, but was just taking time out to digest its food.  When we fueled up at one stage he managed to pay someone elses bill.  He lost a canadian at the Devils Marbles.  He asked girls to look like turtles at 3.30 am.  He sat in the back of the canoe smoking a phat cigar whilst I did the work.  He needed a navigator on a straight road.  He'd never played the ABC game.  He had a bad taste in music.  He bought a vegan vegetarian cheese burgers.  He showed his real class by going bush when only 30kms out of Alice and having to wipe up with wet wipes.  ouch.  Last seen he was totally out of it leaving Bojangles.  He is truly a legend and an alcholic.

I managed a couple of hours kip before meeting some of the girls for a meal and hitting Bojangles.  For those of you who missed my live web cam performance here they are recreated thanks to the Big Steve.  I'll give you a clue.  I'm the bloke.  I'm in a red shirt holding a beer.






Wednesday 14th July 2004 - Day 304/366 - Mataranka, Northern Territory to Wauchope, Northern Territory.

Devils Marbles

After 2 of our 3 nights on the road we are still 1100 kms from Alice Springs. 

I was expecting the road to be through a desert.  In actual fact there are Eucalyptus Trees on both sides of the road.  As we get further into the outback the trees become fewer and more bushy.  The huge termite mounds also begin to disappear.

Every 100kms or so the tedium is broken by eccentric outback towns.  Like Larrimah which is painted pink and has a massive Pink Panther outside.  Then theres Daly Waters with a pub that has underwear hanging from the roof, Australias most remote traffic lights and Frank, who sings a song he wrote about soggy loo paper. 

You pass the occassional Road Train or more like they pass you.  These massive lorries towing 3 trailers and up to 56metres longs are awesome.  Interestingly the drivers of lorries and buses are not subjected to any driving rules in the Northern Territory.  They can drive for any number of hours they like and there are no speed limits on the main highways. 

We set up camp in the little road house in Wauchope and saw the sunset at the Devils Marbles, the oldest exposed land mass in the world.  Actually there are far more marbles than i imagines.  Millions of years ago these huge boulders erupted out of the earth and today here they still are, some perched very precariously.

Friday, July 16, 2004

Tuesday 13th July 2004 - Day 303/366 - Katherine, Northern Territory to Mataranka, Northern Territory.
 
Kayaking the gorge

We had a 7 am start for Kayaking up Katherine Gorge.  The Kayaking was awesome.  We went 6kms up the gorge and had to drag the kayaks up 3 sets rapids.  Some of the girls struggled with the dragging of the boats over the slippery stones and didn't appreciate being helped by a bloke.  I really don't get it. 
 
Canoeing the 6kms back downstream should have been easier, but clearly wasn't.  It felt like the flow and breeze against us, maybe it was just the lactic acid.  To be fair to the girls they all got there and back with in the 4 hours.
 
The gorge is stunning. 
 
On the way out we stopped in Katherine for shopping.  Immediately noticable is all the drunken aborigines.  I actually feel a bit sorry for them.  So what if they are struggling to adapt to white mans vices of Alcohol, gambling and soap.  Up until a generation ago we took there babies away from them to give them a PROPER education  Never mind the fact that they have been successfully living on this land for tens of thousands of years and could probably teach us a thing or 2.  Unfortunately a lot of the children were abused which no doubt causes mental difficulties now. 
 
The skills they used to live on the land were very basic.  It was only in 1978 when the last 2 nomadic aborigines walked out of the outback.  Imagine how they coped with seeing planes and cars etc.
 
If they take a while to adjust then thats fine with me, but we need to remember that we can learn from them too.
 
We ended the day setting up camp in Mataranka.  We were able to soak our aching limbs in the hot springs.  The only problem being the smell from the huge population of flying foxes and the aerial bombardment.
 
A few of us had a drink in the bar where the resident band 'Coal Train' entertained us.  I'm not sure that's the right words for it.

Thursday, July 15, 2004

Monday 12th July 2004 - Day 302/366 - Darwin, Northern Territory to Katherine, Northern Territory.
 
He's had a mare

I'm glad to be getting away from Darwin.  Nice as it is there really isn't too much to do. 
 
Started the long trek down to Alice Springs.  There's a range of ways to cover the 1500 kms.  Either coach, train or plane.  I'm booked on a 3 1/2 day tour down to Alice Springs with Wayward travel $230. 
 
The guide had a bit of a mare.  He's was an hour late picking us up, claiming he had a flat battery.  He's very flustered and driving like a nutter.  He keeps shifting his glasses, fiddling with his cap, the cd player, the air vents, changing his seat position and changing gear.  He reminds me of my driving, but he's obviously stressed.
 
I don't know how I manage it, but on this tour there are 16 girls and 3 guys and Matt the driver.  One guys Japanese and the other is French and part of a couple.  Included in the group is the English, German, Canadian and Japanese that I promised you.
 
It wasn't long before we arrived in Litchfield Park.  We had stops at Tolmer falls, where there was no swimming due to a bat colony.  Then it was Wangi Falls, where there no swimming due to the crocs.  We got to swim at Florence Falls and Buley Rock hole.  I'm not going to discribe what they looked like.  suffice to say they were beautiful and the water was warmer.
 
We checked out the Magnetic Termite mounds.  So called because they all grow in lines facing exactly north to south.




 
Litchfield is much more accessible than Kakadu but that in turn makes it busier.
 
We stopped at a bar on route to Katherine where Charlie the buffalo from Crocodile Dundee is.  well he's stuffed now.
 
The road to Alice has unlimited speed.  The road trains are huge (56 metres), Briggsy would be in here element.  You also don't have your driving hours monitored in the Northern Territory.
 
We set up camp in Katherine.
Sunday 11th July 2004 - Day 301/366 - Darwin, Northern Territory.

Prior Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance

Happy Birthday Pratt!

Today was spent cleaning and doing laundry. Going Bush for 3 days tomorrow.

Did you know Germans call us (Brits), 'The Monkeys from the Island'. I think thats great. Don't you?

Sunday, July 11, 2004

Saturday 10th July 2004 - Day 300/366 - Jim Jim Billabong, Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory to Darwin, Northern Territory.

Swimming with Crocodiles

300 days. I can remember how slowly the first 100 days went. Now they are rocketing by.

After having no visitations from the wildlife or chicks in the night I woke at 5.15 to have breakfast and decamp for a 6.30 departure. No luxury of a shower on this free site. I was ready to go at 5.30 and even the girls were ready at 6.15.

To be fair the girls are a nice bunch, I just wish they'd wear some adequate foot wear. It's the normal strange mix. There's 1 English, 1 Scots and a canadian (I know a joke about that) who knew each other already and are quite clicky. Even though the English girl was born in Fleet and has Mr McFarlane as her dentist still. There's an older lady from Sydney who seems very nice, but just a little too talkative. We have 2 German girls who are nice, but as with all Germans very hard to engage in conversation. Finally is the Jap who cracked her head on the jeep door whilst trying to exit. I feel a bit sorry for her coz "My Ingrish no good". On any tour you go on in Oz you can always guarantee there will be an Englishman, a canadian, a german and a jap. Fact!

I always reckon that before sunrise is the best time of day. It's so peacful and then the big v8 diesel engine is started and we're off down a bumpy 4wd track.


Blowout on punishing tracks


After lots of bumps and bends and an interesting crossing of a creek we were at Twin Falls. From here they used to swim a km up the gorge to the base of the falls. Now thou because of crocs and because the gorge is sacred they have laid on a free boat. The gorge is beautiful and the water crystal clear. There's a nice beach to sit at and admire the view of the falls.


Twin Falls.



Croc trap at Twin Falls.


A little further down the track is Jim Jim Falls. To get to the plunge pool involves a 900m walk. Well actually it's a boulder hop. It's all worth while when you get to the waterfall. The water is icy cold, but because of the heat is very enticing. There are a few saltwater crocodiles that life here, but the swimming is regarded as safe here. These falls absolutely gush during the wet season and are closed.


Jim Jim Falls.



Warning Signs at Jim Jim Falls.


The tour involves lots of driving. We covered about 850kms in the days and most of it is on dirt tracks, in the back of a jeep. I'd love to come back again and see it during the wet season. It must take on so many different guises.

The final stop was the very new and lovely visitor centre where even the boys queued for the loos. There was also some interesting things about the park here too. Kakadu is Aborigine that they lease back to the National Parks. Some of the areas are closed as they are considered sacred.

On the way back we stopped at the sign for a group photo and the 6m Termite mounds.

Turn out the English, scot and canadian girls are staying at the YHA so they felt obliged me to go to dinner with them. Boy do they like the sound of there own voices.
Friday 9th July 2004 - Day 299/366 - Darwin, Northern Territory to Jim Jim Billabong, Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory.

Jumping Crocs.

Happy Birthday Auntie Carol!

Well to be Big Steve for passing all his exams. Maybe now you can quit making excuses and get off your butt and go travelling.

Off to Kakadu today. I've become a very lazy traveller. I think Australia does that to you, but also after 10 months on the road a little weariness has come in. I booked this trip with Kakadu Dreams from Cairns and it's a 2 day 1 night camping trip. Glad to be getting out there.

Managed to land myself in a group of 8, me and 7 girls. I can't believe that some people turn up in flip flops. It seems so dumb, but hey mustn't forget the image.

First stop was Howard Springs to feed the huge Barramundi fish in this swimming hole. You'd have no chance of getting me in there.

We carried on towards Kakadu stopping at the Adelaide River to feed the jumping Crocs. They are wild Crocs although many of them see the boat as a food source. I have a good video of a 3 metre croc jumping to get the food. It managed to get it's back legs out of the water. Pretty Impressive. We also saw Hannibal the Canibal sunning himself on the banks. He's over 5 metres longs, nearly a metre wide and esitmated to weigh a tonne. Wouldn't want him nibbling on my toes.


Jumping Croc.



Hannibal.


These Saltwater crocodiles are extremely agressive and territorial. If anything enters the water near them they will attack. They tend to prey on things smaller than themselves and have been known to attack small boats. Salties can be found in Freshwater as well and sometimes up to 200 kms inland.

Freshwater Crocodiles are generally smaller, growing to about 3 meters. They are only live in found in Freshwater and upto 300 kms inland in Northern Australia. Freshies are much less aggresive and shouldn't attack unless they are provoked or see you as a danger.

The basic rule in North Australia is that you shouldn't swim in any water hole. No matter how tempting they look.

After a quick stop at the Bark Inn for a restock of supplies we headed into the National Park via the Old Jim Jim Road through the Eucalyptus Forest which about 80% of Kakadu's 20000kms sq are. We stopped for lunch at the Water Lily Billabong. There was a lovely view across the water hole with all the lilies in flower.


Water Lily Billabong.


We collected some dry fire wood and set up our tents at Jim Jim Billabong. There were 5 tents between the 8 of us and none of the girls wanted to share with me so I got a tent to myself. Can't understand it really, Briggsy knows what a good tent mate I am.

Next up was a drive to Nourlangi Rock to check out the Aborigine Rock art. Some of it dates back 45000 years, but it's still looks like it was drawm by kids. Over the 1000's of years that they lived happily here on there own they didn't make much progress. 400 years ago white man arrived and tried to educate them, that's when there problems started. From the Rock lookout there was a lovely view across the Forest to the Escarpment. We had a walk around Anbangbang Billabong and a lovely view back to the rock.


Nourlangi Rock.


At Yellow Water Billabong we watched a beautiful sunset of pinks and purples. Marvellous.


Sunset.


Back at the camp we had a good meal of T Bone Steaks, Chilli Buffalo sausages, mashed potatos and vegetable stir fry, cooked on the camp fire. Around the fire we had a few beers and a didge lesson. I learnt that I can make lots of noises with the didge although none of them are tuneful or anything like the ones that Rolf makes.

Later we took a torchlight walk down to the Billabong to see the red croc eyes reflecting back at us. On the ground you can see the silvery spiders eyes. Very wierd.

Thursday, July 08, 2004

Thursday 8th July 2004 - Day 298/366 - Darwin, Northern Territory.

Pencil Cricket

In the middle of reading Henry Blofeld's biography and it reminded me of playing pencil cricket at school. Did anyone else play this? If I remember rightly using a compass you pierced 1-6 holes in a pencil (why we didn't use dice I've no idea), each number represented either runs, dot balls or chances. Then with another roll of the pencil you would decide how many runs or whether you were out or not. We used to have big tournaments as I recall.

We all know I've watched alot of sport, but I promise you I've never seen anything with the intensity of the State of Origin. This year the series has gone right down to the final game. You must watch this if you come to Oz. The atmosphere in the bar was electric and I'm not even in Queensland or New South Wales.

The game was close up until half time, but then the injuries from all the hard hits started to take effect. The game finished 34-18 to NSW.

Why is it that when someone is snoring in your room everbody wakes up apart from the guilty party?

Wednesday, July 07, 2004

Wednesday 7th July 2004 - Day 297/366 - Darwin, Northern Territory.

Meat Market

Spent last night watching an absolutely awesome batting display by Andrew Flintoff and Andrew Strauss putting on 223 for the 4th wicket against the Windies. As ever with England it was too little too late and they lost the game by 7 wickets. Ah the traumas of an English sports fan.

I then spent the rest of the night in the bar people watching. Mainly an old guy and his young apprentice cracking on to anything in a skirt (and somethings not in skirts). They crashed and burned everytime, but you've got to admire there pluck they kept going, despite the fact that everyone was laughing at them. I was sitting at a table with 3 ladies. The old guy tried to crack on to them. They ignored them. So he said to me.

Old Man :- Are you there bodyguard?

Bloo :- No

Old Man :- Well if youre not there bodyguard why aren't you trying to crack on to them?

Bloo :- Because I'm trying to watch the cricket.

I don't do the meat market. I find it demeaning and degrading and about as comfortable as having my teeth extracted by the doorknob and string method. This guy had no shame, no tact, no nothing and really couldn't take a hint. I guess if you buy enough tickets he'll eventually pull a winner, or at least someone as drunk as he is. He can be a pratt, I'll just be me. Take me as I am.

Tuesday, July 06, 2004


MY Pussy cats. Bloo (post broken leg fixing) and Red. Photo courtesy of my Dad. I'm very impressed he can work a Digital Camera and Email me the pic.
Tuesday 6th July 2004 - Day 296/366 - Darwin, Northern Territory.

Crikey

Well Australia wrapped up the test match in 3 days so have spent the last 2 days (and nights) in the cafes and bars down Mitchell Street. The hotel they are staying in is right behind the hostel I'm staying. In my drunken state on Saturday night I decided to engage Matty Hayden (the worlds best batsman in conversation). You see I met him during the last Ashes series in England. He's a good friend of Fleets chairman (Martin) who in turn is also into Hampshire County Cricket. From time to time I get invited to some cricket functions and on this occasion met Matty and his wife.

Now I didn't want to be rude and not talk to him, but I was also pretty sure that he wouldn't have a clue who I was. Anyway conversation went something like this:-

Bloo :- "Matty, I'm a friend of Martin Griffiths from Hampshire, we met in Southampton the last time you were over."

Matty :- "Marty! Top bloke. How are the boys doing this, mind you have got Warney (Shane Warne legend!"

Bloo :- "I have no idea, you see I've been travelling for 10 months"

Matty :- "Marty! Top Bloke."

Bloo :- "Are you from Kingaroy? I stayed with an Auntie in Kingaroy. How strange is that?"

Matty :- "It's not strange its a nice area." missing my point.

Bloo :- "So what was going on with the pitch out there"

Matty :- "Shocking! Marty top bloke!"

With that he turned his back and carried on talking to Ricky Ponting, Justin Langer and Adam Gilchrist. Well I tried.

Darwin is a funny place. The population is largly transient and the town is spread far and wide and incorporates many other communities, like Palmerston, Causauringe and Berriwah. Darwin probably isn't the major place.

There are quite a few aborigines about. A few living up to the drunken stereotype and lolling on the floor and begging.

Oh and it's hot. This is the dry season. 30c by day and 20c at night. In the wet season the temps can get up to 50c. Man that's crazy.

The bus service is a bit strange too. There are only 10 routes and they run very infrequently and not all of them go to Darwin. Too be honest there isn't the call for it.

I took one of the infrequent buses to the Crocodylus Park. Such docile looking creatures, until they get a wriggle. Some of the salties are massive. They had one that was 5 metres long and weighed 530kg. They also sell the baby crocs for $700. Bargain.

I caught Big Brother on the box today. Due to a technical cock up from the phone company the wrong person was evicted from the house last night. So Bree has now been reinstated and the proper person will be evicted later in the week. Publicity stunt or what?

Monday, July 05, 2004

Monday 5th July 2004 - Day 295/366 - Darwin, Northern Territory.

What is the World Coming to.

I tell you I've been away for 10 months and Greece only go and win the Euro Championships. I can't believe it. I didn't watch it (i was sleeping), but I knew they won because at about 6.30 all I could hear was car horns and cheering. This is Darwin, not bloody Athens, but now everyone claims to be part Greek.

It does beg 2 questions:

1. Do any greeks actually live in Greece?
2. How can a country where you can't even use toilet paper be European Champions?

For my part I think all Greeks are Malakas.

Sunday, July 04, 2004

Sunday 4th July 2004 - Day 294/366 - Darwin, Northern Territory.

Dum de dum

Got absolutely nothing to say today. Please feel free to talk amongst yourselves.

Friday, July 02, 2004

Saturday 3rd July 2004 - Day 293/366 - Darwin, Northern Territory.

Should I go home?

Happy Birthday Harri!

I checked my bank account and credit card today. Oh Dear! The sensible thing to do would be to be at home working my ass off. It really is beginning to dawn on me that in a short time I will have come home and face reality. In the meantime I'm going to enjoy it.
Friday 2nd July 2004 - Day 292/366 - Darwin, Northern Territory.

Stupid questions

Talking of stupid questions, when I was out from my early morning run. I said G'Day to a guy unloading fruit juice. He asked me how my day was. Mate it's 6am ask me again when it's had a chance to develop.

I think I spent too long in the sun yesterday. I was only in it for an hour from 9.30 until the shade of the stand covered me, but I've got a massive ring around my neck and arms. Yep the Farmers tan is back. I had to go to bed as soon as I got in yesterday as I had a massive headache.

I must be the person I know who can be travelling for a year and never have bought any sun cream. I'm was still using the bottle that I brought with me and that wasn't brand new. I've been skiing, I've been to California, Florida, Hawaii, Fiji and Australia and I still haven't used it all up. I couldn't find it yesterday and that's why I got burnt. Now I'll have to buy some more.

I read Phil Tufnell's autobiography. Lots of funny stories, but he was a bit of a rascal and if he hadn't been such a bloody good bowler he wouldn't have played much for England. In truth though he should have played more than the 40 odd times that he did play. He's been through lots of strife, but I'm sure he'd admit that a lot of it was his own doing.
Thursday 1st July 2004 - Day 291/366 - Darwin, Northern Territory.

Anyone for Cricket

I'm off to see the cricket the wonderful cricket of Oz. 1st day of the test match against Sri Lanka.

I was confronted today by one of THOSE cricket fans. You know the ones who carry their flight bag, with scorecard and a different coloured pen for each player, a thermos flask, egg sandwiches neatly wrapped in silver foil. They talk to you like they know you them and as if you'd care about how many of the minor county grounds they've visited and the best bowling return they've ever seen. I imagine they live at home (even their parents are tired of them) and walk around all day in a pinny and pink marigolds because it excites them. They are very much like train spotters or the fellas I see on the Non league football circuit. In the trade we call them badgers. I've often wondered if I will turn into one of these people. It's fair to say I have a sizeable program collection and I went through a stage of collecting badges (i got to about 4), but surely not. Anyway I find marigolds irritate my skin.

Back to the cricket. The day saw an untypical Australian display. Having lost the toss the were put into bat. They made slow progress and continued to lose wickets. The Sri Lankan bowler Malinga (the slinger) was on debut and conceded a few runs early on, but came back well with a firey spell to take 2 of the wickets. Oz are never out of it and still grafted away eventually scoring 207 all out. without Murali that was a good effort. Vaas ended with 5 for 31 and Glenn McGrath got another Golden Duck. Warney is worshipped over here, but was run out on 2, he was very slow out of the blocks. Too much good hampshire living I say and only bowled one over at the end of the day's play. Sri Lanka had a wobble in the evening and ended at 40 for 3.
Wednesday 30th June 2004 - Day 290/366 - Darwin, Northern Territory.

Help I'm Melting

Walked down to Doctors Gully which is a site of historic importance and they also hand feed the tropical fish at high tide. During WW2 the gully was used as a launch pad for the flying boats to bomb Japan. Prior to that it was the site of a hospital and the cities first water supply. Now it's just a stagnant water creek.

It's a pleasant walk up the esplanade although the beach is all Mangroves and the port is a naval base and there are lots of container ships. You end up at the Wharf having passed the Deckchair Cinema, which shows films nightly outdoor and on deckchairs (funnily enough). Fantastic idea I think I'm going to open one in Fleet.

I took a self guided tour ($4.50) up the WW2 oil storage tunnels. Constructed in 1942 these massive tunnels were used to protect the oil from the falling Japanese bombs. Inside it's now a photo gallery of the destruction reeked on Darwin.

It took a while to get to the end of the wharf and once there I wasn't entirely sure why I'd bothered, but they did serve the best Barramundi.

I was just thinking how different Darwin was to the rest of Oz when as if to prove my point a massive lizard thingy crossed my path. Noone seemed the slightest bit perturbed.

Read Apollo 13. The book written by Jim Lovell the Apollo 13 commander details the disaster that nearly happened in space on there mission to the moon. The book was subsequently made into a movie, with Tom Hanks. I'm sure you've all seen it. Anyway I thought the film was good, but the book is better. It's quite technical but even plebs like me can understand it. It's amazing the number of problems that stemmed from the one and how they methodically worked through it and got the boys home. It's made even more amazing, because when I went to Houston and saw the Mission Control, i'd have been amazed if they could make a lego set with the archaic systems that they had, but they did. or did they?