Wednesday, February 11, 2004

Tuesday 10th February 2004, Day 150/366 - Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii.

Went for an early morning surf. I proved to be a complete numpty, by catching no waves. Oh well I suppose it gives me chance to work on my tan.
I had the rest of the day as an admin day. Caught up on my blog, wrote my boasting postcards and changed my flights. So you'll notice that my day count has changed. My new flights are (local times).

Honolulu - Nadi, Fiji - 14/02/04 - FJ821 - 00.35
Nadi, Fiji - Auckland - 25/02/04 - FJ413 - 8.40
Christchurch - Melbourne - 30/04/04 - QF36 - 6.00
Perth - Singapore - 30/7/04 - QF77 - 11.35
Bangkok - Heathrow - 14/9/04 - QF301 - 23.15
Monday 9th February 2004, Day 149/273 - Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii.

Signed up to do Jacks Tour of the island for $30. He does it cheap for the hostel. It very informative and well worth it.

The temperature in Hawaii stays constant all year round. It never falls below 26 degs or goes above 33 degs. They don't have daylight savings as the sun always sets between 6 and 8. The islands are situated 2,500 miles from America and 4,000 miles from Japan.

We stopped at a blow hole, which is a natural formation in the rocks and when the waves are right spurts water into the air a little like a geyser. We later stopped at Makapuu point to see the sea turtles and the very cool dolphins. We were very lucky. We passed Magnums PI's house before stopping at Waimanalo beach.

Waimanalo beach is 6km's of sandy beach with no one on it. It's a 1 hour bus ride from Waikiki and  no one comes here. We then went to the Ulupo Heiau which was the site of an Hawaiian temple and learnt about the culture.



Waimanola beach


We then drove up the east coast and around to the north shore and down to Haleiwa which is surf capital USA. We visited the famous surf resorts of Waimea Bay, Sunset Beach and the bonsai pipeline. It struck me that this was the first time I'd ever seen proper surfing waves.

It was a grand day. Taking about 10 hours and it was nice to do it with other backpackers.
Sunday 8th February 2004, Day 148/273 - Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii.

Woke up surprisingly fresh at 7.50. Mind I have been looking forward to this day for ages. Not sure why as I know the games gonna be dull, but it will be an event. Today is Pro Bowl day. The Pro Bowl is the american football all star game. Basically the fans, coaches, players and media pick the best players from the 2 NFL conferences who then play off against each other in a end of season finale.

I bought my ticket on line a couple of months ago for $30. Dave managed to pick up a legit ticket yesterday for $60. The attendance was around 50,000. I had a fantastic seat, 3 rows back and right in the middle behind the end zone. It was the sunny end too, that didn't matter, but boy was it sunny.

I was right in that it was an event too. They took 30 minutes to introduce the teams and then had more pariotic poop for the anthem although the soaring eagle was a memorable touch.

It was a topsy turvy game. The AFC had led the game the whole time and were 18 points up with 5 minutes to go. Then in 90 seconds there was a 28 point swing. The AFC had a field goal to take the game into overtime which they missed and ended up losing the game 52-55. It was the highest scoring Pro Bowl of all time and a great day.

Bloo @ the Probowl


Bloo @ the Probowl


Bloo @ the Probowl


I said my goodbyes to Dave. We've done loads together and I'm sure one day I'll go to the World Cup with him and do the 3 peaks challenge.


One hundred and eighty!!!
Saturday 7th February 2004, Day 147/273 - Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii.

We woke up at 7.00 to catch the first waves of the day. In other words we took an hour long surf lesson on Waikiki beach for $25. I managed to catch the first wave I attempted to and even managed to stand up. We were lucky and had good conditions and a long wide board. It was easy money for the instructor, but good fun. Bloo's surfing advice. If you've never done it before then Waikiki is a good place to learn, but go early in the day as it gets very busy later on. The main surf areas are on the north shore (Waikiki is south), but conditions for beginners are a bit rough.


Yeah - surf dude

We later caught the # 20 ($2) bus out to Pearl Harbour. It's free entry to the USS Arizona memorial. This is the ship that was sunk during the Japanese sneaky beaky attack on the US pacific fleet in 1941 that started World War 2 (for the USA anyway, we all know it really started in 1939). Now the USS Arizona has 1177 US sailors entombed on the ship and they have provided a poignant memorial to them and all the other persons who died on 7/12/1941. The US does dead people really well. The ship sunk in 40 feet of water in just 9 minutes.  It was so badly damaged by fire that it couldn't be raised. Of the 21 ships that the Japanese hit that day only 3 weren't salvaged. The other 18 saw further action in the war. PS The real Pearl Harbour had nothing to do with Ben Affleck falling in love, then having his heart broken and then having his ex girlfriends new boyfriend die. Oh the drama.





Incidentally there was a Reeves who received the highest naval honour aboard the USS California at Pearl Harbour.


The bus back takes an hour and as it was Dave's last night we went out for a beer. Got in at 3. Doesn't time fly.
Friday 6th February 2004, Day 146/273 - Wailuku, Maui, Hawaii to Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii.

The Banana Bungalow rocks, just watch out for the wood lice. I met the nicest people here and this has been by far the best week of the tour. I'm going to miss Maui. I missed 2 of the tours. The whale watching, which is apparently hit and miss and the 12 mile hike of Haleakula. I would have liked to do that, but I have a prior engagement in Honolulu on Sunday

I love listening in on hostel conversations. This guy today was giving advice to someone who has an idea for a film and wanted to find out how to get funding etc. to get his film made. He claimed to be a highly successful film producer and started handing out his advice. Mate if you're so successful why are you vacationing in a hostel.

The hostel gave me a free lift to the airport. I was walking to the departure lounge when I saw a familiar face. It turns out that Mx is on the same flight as me although she goes on to Kauai. She claims she didn't know what flight I was on, but I think she's stalking me.

After a stressful 22 minute flight I got the $8 airport transfer direct to the hostel. Apparently they don't like you taking baggage on the local buses from the airport. I'm staying in the HI @ 2417 Prince Edward Street in Waikiki (a suburb of Honolulu).

So here I am back on Oahu and in the main centre of Hawaii. Apparently 65% of the population of Hawaii lives in Honolulu. Honolulu is the state capital and therefore a big city. Waikiki however is very nice and clean. Oahu is the 3rd biggest of the 135 Hawaiian Islands (only 8 main ones) and very popular with tourists, especially the Japanese. It's all very different from the seclusion of Maui. I had been warned, buts it's more built up than I imagined.

I met up with brummy Dave (from the Banana Bungalow) and headed to the pro bowl football festival in the local park. There were NFL players and cheerleaders signing autographs and games to play. We didn't recognise anyone so we took a walk up to Diamond Head.

Diamond Head is a volcanic crater that was used as a military installation and is a famous Honolulu landmark. The trail to the top provides a great view across the hills, the ocean and the city from a height of 760 feet. It cost $1 entry and was quite a hike to the top although well worth it.


Diamond Head


View from Diamond Head

In the evening we walked again, this time to the cinema. We watched 'Miracle'. It was a typical America beats the big bad and unbeatable Russians. I expected so much of this film, but really it was patriotic poop.
Thursday 5th February 2004, Day 145/273 - Wailuku, Maui, Hawaii

We trekked the Haleakala (Maui's volcano) low land lava fields to get to Ahihi Bay. The Preserve Small Bay is also known as the aquarium for its abundance of fish. If I thought yesterday's snorkelling was good then this was 10 times better. It's amazing to see all the different fish and when the sun shines you get the full spectrum of colours. If you go a little outside of the bay, you may be lucky enough to see sea turtles and hear the whales communicate.



The Fish Bowl. Doesn't look like much, but you won't believe the number of fish in there.


We had a fish taco and then headed to Makena beach to play volleyball. I again showed off my amazing volleyball talent and they were blown away when I headed the ball. Mad English Man.
Wednesday 4th February 2004, Day 144/273 - Wailuku, Maui, Hawaii

Today's tour is to Lahaina where Mx moved to the other day. It's much more of a tourist resort. The Hawaiian Islands tend to be set up so that the resorts are on the south side of the islands where the ocean is calmer. The north side's tend to have the better waves and tides for the surfers and also tend to have more rain.

Lahaina means sun to earth and has consistent warm weather throughout the year.  Yet just 8 miles away, up the mountain is one of the wettest places on earth, that sees 300 inches of rain a year. That's Hawaii for you.

We hired some snorkelling gear ($5.25) and headed up to Kaanapali beach to snorkel around the black rock bay. Kaanapali is known as the whalers village and is also a popular tourist resort. If Makena beach was the secluded tropical paradise then this was the opposite. The snorkelling however was magical. This was my first time snorkelling and after a few lung fulls of water I eventually worked out how to breathe properly and saw a wondrous array of fish of all shapes, sizes and beautiful colours. Unfortunately there were no tetras.

We went back to Lahaina where I met up with Mx for a while. We saw the Buddhist temple and the huge Banyan trees. Banyan trees are quite strange trees. They send roots down from their branches to get all the nutrients from the air. Eventually when the new root hits the ground they form new trunks and so the trees spreads far and wide. Apparently one tree in India is now the size of 3 football fields.




Lahaina is a very nice resort and this is how people vacation when they are not in hostels. I like the seclusion of Wailuku, it's nice to be able to do the tours with the other travellers and they’ll be plenty of time to get to the resorts later.

The main reason for coming to Lahaina was to watch the stunning sunset. Unfortunately it was happy hour in the 'Moose' so we missed it. At least the beer was cold and cheap.

We left the Alaskan contingent (nose rubbers), the girl from the picture, on a beach in the middle of nowhere. They wanted to camp out there. Rather them than me, but they will get a beautiful view in the morning.

I went to dinner with a couple of space cadets, my new friends Brandy and Rich and learnt about circumcisions. Not the best dinner topic, but I was amazed to learn that 85% of American men, 25% of Australian and 5% of English men are circumcised. Sorry to bring that up and I'll leave you with that thought.

Wednesday, February 04, 2004

Tuesday 3rd February 2004, Day 143/273 - Wailuku, Maui, Hawaii

I left Mx at the hostel as I embarked on the road to Hana. Mx is carrying on with her own itinerary, but really she's leaving so I can get some peace and quiet and so she can stop getting me in trouble by taking photos of half naked women and putting them on my website.

The road to Hana is said to be the most beautifulest road in the world (ain't that a surprise). Apparently it has 600 corners and 51 single track bridges. The road takes you across the top of the island around to the far east side where Hana is located.  It is pretty stunning. On your left side you have the ocean far below and on your right you have craggy cliffs with waterfalls cascading down at every bend.

After about an hour and a halves drive we stopped at a roadside shack for striped marlin kabob's (delicious), coconut candy (surprisingly tasty) and a packet of ruffles (traditional Hawaiian fare).

We continued on to a red sand beach which was formed from crumbling lava rock and the contrast with the blue of the ocean is stunning. It wasn't sand and my poor feet took another pounding as we swum in the ocean. Maybe I am a girls blouse.

Eventually this old fella turned up.  You know the type?  Floppy straw hat, long hair, scraggly beard and dressed in colourless clowns clothes. Anyhow he got out his mystical stick (it looked like a broom handle) and started flattening the sand in front of him. We got talking to him and it turns out that he has been coming down here nearly everyday for 11 years to preserve the sacred spirit. Cool, weird, but cool. He was doing a cracking job until the bird from the picture walked straight through todays sacred patch. This guy was fascinating as he chatted away about the spirit of the ocean etc and then he let his whole argument go to pot as he pulled out his sacred jewellery and tried to flog us sacred necklaces for a sacred $225. In a matter of minutes this guy had gone from mystical man to del boy. I guess he was trying to live the american dream or maybe he was just dreaming. At least I still had my new mate Dave with me on this planet.


Hippies on the beach selling there wares


Anyone brave/stupid enough


The secluded red sand beach

We continued the trip up to the Kipihulu pools and took the river hike. We had a good hour hike through a bamboo forest to Waimoku falls. We sat at the base of the 400 foot falls, eating the fresh guava picked from one of the trees. We headed back to the bottom of the trail and had a dip in the 7 sacred pools, although there's more than 7 pools and they're not sacred. Apparently someone had the fantastic idea of naming them something exciting to attract the tourist. A very american idea, which clearly worked and they were lovely.


The lower falls @ Waimoku


The 400 foot Waimoku Falls


The seven sacred pools

We weren't done yet as we stopped off at the freshwater Waianapanapa caves and a black sand beach before heading back. It was a long 12 hour day, but it was great and I ended it in the Jacuzzi. Well it beats working for a living.



The black sand beach
Monday 2nd February 2004, Day 142/273 - Wailuku, Maui, Hawaii

Today we took the rainforest tour. We started with a walk through a river tunnel in bare feet. It was bloody sore. You see I've got accountants feet. We then walked across two rope bridges over river beds and also over stepping stones.





After a 3 hour hike we got to a freshwater pool where we dived into the tropical waterfall pool. I say dived, but I mean plummeted. I say tropical waterfall pool, but I mean icy abyss. It was exhilarating and Mx may say that I am a big girls blouse, but I didn't see her diving in. It was a another moment where I had to summon up my courage to do it.



We took the extreme trail back along the gorge with a great view across to the other side. We came back via the Iao state park and it's great scenery.
If you thought Hawaii was all about beaches (as I did) then you'd be wrong. There is so much more.

Today I learnt that Swedish miles are different from our miles. Apparently 10km = 1 Swedish mile. Weirdo's!
Sunday 1st February 2004, Day 141/273 - Wailuku, Maui, Hawaii

Well here we are on Superbowl Sunday. I'm in America and not going to get to see the game. Could be worse though as I'm taking the hostels free tour to Makena Beach.

It was a 45 minute drive to get there and it wasn't a disappointment. It was a proper tropical beach, with nice light sand and beautiful blue seas. We played volleyball on the beach and then refreshed ourselves in the cool water.






On a Sunday all the hippies (I tried to think of a better word for them) come down to the small beach to praise the ocean or something. Basically they just get naked and stoned. I climbed over the rocks to get to the small beach to see what it was all about. It was a load of people with dreadlocks and piercings (everywhere) sittings around playing bongo drums and didgeridoos. I would have hung about if it had been local folk and it was an historic tradition, but as it was just a load of space cadets with nothing better to do. I took my leave and headed back to the main beach.

We got to see a whale. Initially it was only blowing, but eventually it started breaching, which was an amazing thing to see. The hippies would have been in ecstasy. It's a sign. Whatever it was it was cool.

I always remember my Uncle Ted and Auntie Margaret used to come to Hawaii and when I used to visit them used to show there slides of the sunsets. Today's sunset didn't disappoint. The pictures on the left will prove that.



In other news, I have decided to extend my tour. I'm going to use every single one of my 365 days. I haven't changed my flights yet, but my proposed new itinerary will be.

6/Feb/2004 to 14/Feb/2004 - Oahu, Hawaii
14/Feb/2004 to 21/Feb/2004 - Fiji
21/Feb/2004 to 30/Apr/2004 - New Zealand
30/Apr/2004 to 30/Jul/2004 - Australia.
30/Jul/2004 to 14/Sep/2004 - Singapore to Bangkok.

Then home. So Nik, no I won't be back for Grandday. It's a tough life.

and Beemer that means I can start work on the 20th of September.

Sunday, February 01, 2004

Saturday 31st January 2004, Day 140/273 - Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii to Wailuku, Maui, Hawaii

After 4 rather uncomfortable hours in the comfy (!) chair in a dated terminal, we eventually checked in for the first Aloha Airlines flight of the day (cost $170 return) to Maui. It was nice to have spent the night outside and for it still to be warm, the terminal is pretty much open air. It was a nice change from all the pissy weather I've had since Hollywood. We even had the cheesy Hawaiian music being played all night. I found myself doing the little hula dance. I resisted the urge for a Burger King breakfast and had a bowl of fruit instead, for which I am intensely proud.

The flight left at at 5.50 and hadn't even ended the take off before it started the descent. It took 20 minutes from the wheels leaving the ground in Honolulu before they touched down again in Kahlulia, Maui. We had to wait till 8.00 for the hostel to come pick us up for free. Staying at the Banana Bungalow @ 310 N market Street. I was attracted to the hostel as they offer free tours every day.

Today's tour is a 12 mile hike through the lava fields, but I don't think we're up to that today. So we took a walk down to the beach. It was a long walk and wasn't really worth it. Wailuku doesn't seem a particularly convenient place for tourists (I guess that's an attraction) so we're a long way from anything. It would make a good base to explore if you had a car, but we'll just take advantage of the free tours instead. I'd assumed Maui was small, but it isn’t.
Friday 30th January 2004, Day 139/273 - Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada to Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii, USA.

What is it with coffee shops? Why do we need 4 on every street corner? Why do you have to order tall, grand or tres and not small medium or large? What is the difference between a latte, mocha, cappuccino, americano, frappuchino and expresso? What are double shots? Why can't I just get a regular coffee? Not that I drink it, but I 'd be confused if I did.

So last night I had my nightly chat with Dave from Ireland. He's working over here and is in the bunk beneath me. Every night he goes out, gets drunk and comes back to the room to have his nightly rant over a spliff. Vancouver is that sort of place. Pot is sort of legal and everywhere you go you can smell the sweet aroma. So anyway Dave always has a rant about how crap it is to work over here and how much he misses Europe whilst asking me every so often where I'm off to next. He even went as far as to say that I'm the most interesting person that he's had above him. Of course in the morning he remembers none of it. This morning he couldn't be bothered to get up for work and when he saw me packing he asked the age old question. So where you off to?

Typically we're leaving Vancouver on the nicest day we've had so far, but it feels good to have the first part of the tour over with. Be gone all this cold shitty weather. Hawaii here I come.

I caught the public bus out to the airport for $3 cdn. The buses are great here. They go every 6 or 7 minutes and people use them. See America if you build it, they will come.

Checked in at the airport and had to clear American customs in Canada, but also you have to pay a $10 cdn airport improvement fee to Vancouver airport, before they let you on the plane. Is that cheeky or is it just me?

We're flying buckshee airways (Air Pacific), just a little better than crab air. We left at 20.00 for a 6 hour flight to Honolulu. Actually the service was much better than expected. Decent food and free drinks. The films were 'The Wannabees' (terrible) and 'Second-hand Lions' (not much better). It's only a little 737-800, but it flies all the way to Nadi, Fiji via Hawaii and Samoa for fuel stops. It’s the same flight that we'll be catching in 2 weeks from Honolulu to Nadi.

They showed a documentary on Fiji. Looks really fantastic, but it did strike home how little I knew about it and the lack of preparation I've done for the rest of the trip.

Arrived in Honolulu at 23.45 (local time, gained another 2 hours so now 10 hours different) and had to wait 5 hours for my flight to Maui. I didn't see the point in checking into a hotel for the night so had 4 hours kip in a comfy chair (sort of) before the Aloha Airlines office opens.