Wednesday 19th November 2003, Day 67/273 - Phoenix, Arizona

'Water, water' that was my first thought of the day, shortly followed by 'Crap food, crap food'.  So I went to McDonalds for a sausage and egg McMuffin meal. I can report that the McMuffins are as good as they are in the UK but the hash browns are bigger and better.

It's a beautiful today. I can't imagine any places that are much hotter than here in November. The backdrop to all the buildings is a brilliant blue sky, with the occasional glimpse of the distant red mountains that create the valley that Phoenix is set in. God, that almost sounded poetic. I must go lie down.

You get a real feeling of openness and space which you wouldn't expect from Americas 6th biggest city. There are plenty of green parks and desert trees. There's certainly no place like this back home.

After last nights events I put todays plans on hold and just sat on the free dash bus that takes you round the 'Copper Town' district. After about my third loop I was getting a bit dizzy so I got off and went to sit in the park and listened to some live guitar player. He was awful but we all clapped anyway. I couldn't find a can of tomatos.

It was to my relief when a friendly face said 'Hi'. It was Jake from the hostel who after finishing his first year at college decided to take a year out and cycle and camp around America. Unfortunately he'd had an accident, his bike is knackered so he headed to Phoenix to get repairs. He was of course mistaken in thinking that he could find a bike repair shop in America's 6th busiest city. The closest shop is in Tempe, a suburb of Phoenix and where the Arizona State University is, and where the Arizona Cardinals (NFL) play. It's basically a college party town.

We both had reason to go there so we caught the bus.  We headed first to the stadium to see if I could get tickets for sundays NFL game. Currently the Cardinals share the college's 70,000 seat stadium. That's how big College football is over here. The games are televised. That's like watching 2 English universities competing every week live on TV with millions watching and in front of a packed 70,000 seat stadium. To show the scale of it the ticket office only sells tickets for the College team. It's only open for Cardinals tickets on game days.

After fetching Jakes' bit for his bike we spent the afternoon in a student bar called 'The Library'. I got Id'd, which isn't unusual over here.  On seeing my date of birth (18/8/1975) she said ' There aren't 18 months in the year'. 'Um there are in my world love.'

I also had a very bizarre toilet/restroom moment, but you really need to see the photos. Words can't do it justice.






Jake and I headed back to Phoenix and ate in Friday's again.  I then headed to the America West Arena to watch the Ice Hockey. I'd given Clem a call to thank him for looking after me last night. Unfortunately he couldn't make it tonight, he had women problems, so I had to slum it in the cheap seats. He has promised to take me out at the weekend.



On reading the program it turns out that Phoenix are not happy with just your 3 great stadium. The hockey team and football teams are both building brand new, state of the art, stadiums. There is plenty of space. Hopefully they'll remember to put in a box office.

So tonight I'm watching NHL (ice hockey) between the Phoenix Coyotes and the St. Louis Blues. It looked like a tough game on paper. The pre match build up included it's usual arse / ass clenching rendition of the Star Spangled Banner. Boy did she overplay her part. At home she would have been drowned out by the crowd. It's a shame because it's a good anthem, when sung properly.

Phoenix scored after 51 seconds having only managed one line change in that time. I've no idea how they keep up with who's on the ice and who isn't. At the end of the 1st period they had a game of musical chairs on ice, which was amusing. The Blues then scored one short handed goal and then another in a powerplay and then added another just for good measure. The Coyotes trailing 3-1 scored 3 goals in the last minutes of the second period to lead 4-3. The Blues then equalized early in the third. That's how it stayed until the Coyotes scored to win it with 1 min 45 seconds left. The Blues pulled the goal tender., but it was to no avail as the Coyotes triumphed 5-4 . It was pretty exciting, but there was no blood or proper fights. Not even when the guy got hit in the head by the puck.

Tuesday 18th November 2003, Day 66/273 - Phoenix, Arizona

I walked to the hostel from the terminal. It's about 3 miles. There is a local bus service, but I like to walk (I think it's the sun going to my head). I checked in, had a quick shower and then walked into the downtown area. The hostel is again not in the centre of the city, but a good 15 minute walk.



The first stop was the very helpful visitor centre, who informed me (politely) that there's not a lot to do in Phoenix and it is so big that it is hard to get around without a car. They were genuinely really helpful and offered free internet access where I booked my accomodation, for next week, in Vegas. The Stratosphere on Tuesday, the Sahara on Wednesday and then it all gets expensive, so I'm off to the hostel.

Next I went off to buy tickets for the upcoming fixtures. It's nice to finally get to a city where the sports teams are playing at home. I bought tickets for the Phoenix Sun (NBA Basketball) tonight, Thursday and saturday and the Phoenix Coyotes (NHL Ice Hockey) on Wednesday and Friday. All these games are to be played at the America West Arena. I know it seems a bit extreme, but the tickets only came to $61.50 for 5 nights entertainment.

I had an afternoon to kill and I suppose most sane people who hadn't slept all night would go and get their head down. Not me, I went to go and take part in my most favorite thing. You guessed it, a stadium tour of the Ball One Ballpark (BOB) for $6. It's situated right next door to the America West Arena. You guys must be getting a bit bored of me writing about sports stadia and to be fair I'm finding it a bit tedious too, but this stadium I actually found different from the rest. It seems to have been built with the fans in mind as opposed to the corporate big spenders and they've paid attention to the little details. Every seat in the stadium is angled towards homeplate. It has a retractable 5 acre roof that takes 4.5 minutes to open. They've installed airconditioning and a swimming pool, from where you can watch the game. You've got to bear in mind that Pheonix is in the middle of a desert and for 90% of the year the temperature is over 100 degrees. Today is only 80.

BOB is home of the Arizona Diamondbacks, winners of the 2001 world series and are owned by the same owner as the Suns. The whole stadium cost $354m.





That past 90 minutes of my life, so I went for a drink and pre game meal in the TGI Fridays that overlooks the ballpark. I think this is such a great location for a restaurant. I was all paid up and ready to head across to the America West Arena when I got chatting to the bloke sat next to me. It turns out he's going to the game and was waiting for his friend to turn up with the tickets. So we had a few more drinks at his expense. When Elizabeth turned up, we drank some red stuff before Elizabeth decided she couldn't be bothered to go to the game and gave her suite tickets to Clem and I.

Next thing I know I was sat in an executive suite watching the Chicago Bulls play the Phoenix Suns. It was pretty cool in the box as the JD's were very generous and Clem still paid. We even got to meet the cheerleaders, as we were executives. I have to say that they were much younger than I imagined.



I'm afraid the game rather passed me by but i do know that the Suns won. Clem gave me a lift home afterwards and it's fair to say I slept like a baby. I had a great night although I could have saved the $12.50 I'd spent on my ticket.

Monday 17th November 2003, Day 65/273 - San Angelo, Texas to Phoenix, Arizona

I realised in the morning that I hadn't abused Andy's hospitality nearly enough, so I spent the morning on his internet. Some of the time I spent researching the remainder of my USA trip, but I also managed to book tickets for the Pro Bowl, which is in Hawaii, on the 8th February 2004.

Andy gave me a lift down to the terminal for my 12.45 bus to Pheonix. It turns out that my pass running out on the 17th means that I can't travel on the 17th. I find that slightly odd, but that's life. So my 800 odd mile, 19 hour trip on greyhound cost me $115. I'd decided not to renew anyway as I'll be travelling less for the next 60 days. I'm also considering taking a couple of plane trips for the longer journey, notably San Francisco to Denver. I've worked out the prices and there isn't a lot of difference. Plus 60 days on a greyhound is quite long enough, thanks.

I must say thank you to Andy, Jane, Louise and Rosie for looking after me so well. I can't say how nice it was to meet you and what it means to be looked after for a few days. I hope I can return the favour some day.

It's back to reality for me. Well my reality anyway. The reality of a 28 year old divorced man, travelling across America on the Greyhound and all that entails.

I must say that the Texas people (and even the greyhound passengers) have been really pleasant. You don't have to make any effort with them. They approach you and it makes a nice change from the East Coast and the UK. I also like Texans because they all think that I'm just out of school. The countryside is really nice as well. I feel like I'm in a Wrigleys advert. The land is very flat and dotted with small oil wells. The occasional one is pumping away. Not something you'd see at home.

We got to Big Spring at 14.15 and then El Paso at 21.30 having lost another hour. El Paso is still in Texas, but is in a different time zone. Go figure. All that means I'm now 7 hours behind you at home and after 12 nights it's bye bye to Texas.

We got stopped by a border immigration patrol who stormed (I'm playing this up) the bus and asked if we were Americans. If you said yes they moved on to the next person. If you said no they wanted to see your passport. I'm not sure of the sense behind that. Anyway one Mexican women got disembarked never to be seen again. Well not by us anyway.

It's dark now and it's still very flat and there's no lights to be seen anywhere. It reminds me of flying over Africa at night, apart from the massive dual carriageway scythed through the middle of the land.

We also got searched for knifes again, by a guard who stated that 1 in 10 passengers carry knives. Well I'm one of the 9 as mine's still in Orlando.

So we continued through New Mexico and on to Tucson, Arizona (4.15) and then finally Phoenix, Arizona - America's 6th Largest City. I'd managed to get precisely no sleep on the bus again, mainly due to 3 people having a chin wag the whole time. Good job I'd got enough sleep @ Andy's.

Sunday 16th November 2003, Day 64/273 - San Angelo, Texas

Whilst the Howards went off to the christening Mx and I were left at the mess for an all you eat brunch. Obviously we're not good enough to be taken to church. I'm not to bothered look what sort of trouble going to church got me into. Plus we had an all you eat brunch to devour, which we duly did.

When he returned from the christening Andy took Mx down to the Greyhound station. She's off to Austin and then Dallas to see Badly Drawn Boy in concert. I decided to stay an extra day because it's so nice being looked after and the Rugby world cup semi final is on TV. My pass runs out on the 17th so I've got to leave tomorrow really.

On the way back we very excitingly had a tyre blowout, but don't fear we're all okay. Mechanic Reeves sprung into action. Andy did a bit of jacking and every one else supervised.

Saturday 15th November 2003, Day 63/273 - San Angelo, Texas

First thing that happened after I woke this morning getting mobbed by 2 girls, clinging to my legs and diving on me in total admiration. It doesn't happen very often in my live (in fact never). It's a shame that they are only 8 and 5 years of age, but I do seem to have this effect on children. They seem to have a desire to beat me. Actually thinking about it, maybe it's not just kids.

As it's Saturday we went to 'International House of Pancakes' for breakfast. As you can guess IHOP is a fast food chain dedicated to pancakes, crepes and omelettes. It's actually pretty good and very popular. I guess it's some kind of tradition as it's heaving.

With our bellies full Andy and I went to help build a house. It seems a good project run by 'Habitat for Humanity' where they get volunteers to help build a house. It's being built in the car park of Home Depot (who are supplying most of the goods) and when completed with be transported to become someones home.

This weekend it was Andy's Squadron's turn to supply the labour (or labor as they're American). It was at the stage of felting the roof so we joined the throng hammering nails. I say we, but I mean me as Andy was defending our corner after suffering abuse from his troops for being a limey. I of course kept quiet like the great wing man I am.

I'm not sure I'd live in the house that we'd build. They should have checked my building credentials before letting me lose. My shed at homes bears testament to my lack of building skills. Still at least it has a roof...... for a while.

Afterwards Andy very kindly drove me round the town in search of a new camera. I'd bought a brand new casio digital camera in duty free at Heathrow airport. I've been very happy with it, it's taken some cracking photos until it broke when I was in Houston. Not much good having a camera that only last 2 months.

I was a little concerned about buying a casio camera anyway. There not exactly a world name in camera production. Calculators maybe. I was talked out of buying the robust Kodak I wanted, by the salesman. To be fair the Casio has got a great pentax lens, as he said, but now it doesn't work.

So now I've ended up buying the Kodak SD100 Elph that I was originally looking at for $350.00, about what I would have paid in sterling. It's put a bit of a hole in the budget, but at least I've saved money this week. I also got #150 back from my divorce solictor. You can't really go travelling without a decent camera. I might never come back to these places. Don't mind me I'm just trying to justify my spending.

Before you ask I did look into getting the casio repaired, but everyone wanted to send it away. I did E mail casio with all the details of me being abroad and they very kindly gave me an address to send it to ......... in London. They're about as helpful as JOE. So does anybody want to buy a 2 month old, really dinky digital camera, that used to take great photos. If so please E mail me.

In the evening we all went over to one of the Howard's friends' house for a christening party. This is my type of party. All the blokes are crowded round the TV watching the football, drinking Texas beer (which isn't too bad) while the women cook and know their place and are happy with it.

The ladies cooked us venison from a deer that had been shot by Sandy (one of the guests), then tapalas (mexican and bland) and finally chilli (which was either elk or moose, they weren't sure). It's one thing you notice when you're travelling, you can't afford to be fussy when you eat. Just get on and eat it.

All these people were military so have travelled and are up to date with current affairs, but they are still Texans in every way. Really friendly and nice, but Texan. I was originally worried for Andy and his family being subjected to Texans for 3 years, but really it's a great experience for all of us. Come back soon though mate.

Friday November 14th 2003, Day 62/273 - San Angelo, Texas

Bacon and Eggs for breakfast, um, I might never leave.

Rosie has already decided that she has 2 Mums (Mummy and Mx) and 2 Dad's (Daddy and I). I can take no credit for it.

We were taken to the Air force (Andy's chosen career) base for happy hour where we could drink Newcastle Brown Ale. My first english beer in ages and the first time I've had Newcy brown since it was my tipple for a while (a short while) at school. The American Air Force base is amazing. It has it's own petrol station, Burger King, Pizza Hut and shop full of duty free goodies. That's just the bits I was allowed to see.

Afterwards we all went to the San Angelo Stadium to watch a game of high school football. That's American football not proper football. It's like going to watch the Dukie's play Sir Roger Manwoods in a 15000 all seater stadium, complete with cheerleaders and marching bands. There were only 1084 of us there which isn't bad considering San Angelo weren't even playing. It was a play off game between 2 local sides, and by local I mean within 50 miles.

At half time we were royally entertained by majorettes and flag wavers.

After a few shouts of 'Play up Dukies' and 'Give the ball to Julian', Roby Lions eventually beat Menard Yellow Jackets 20-0.

http://www.texaswest.com/sast/sp_hs_football/article/0,1897,SAST_14456_2431030,00.html

It was good fun to watch although as the game progressed you started to notice that it was the same people making all the plays. One guy was the quarterback, linebacker, punt returner, kicker and punter. Pretty much every other play was a quarterback sneak.

I think everyone thinks I'm skinny because they keep feeding me. I'm not complaining.



Mx and Bloo


Bloo and da Howards


A hunting stand, available in all good supermarkets


Howard, you're a fruit

Thursday November 13th 2003, Day 61/273 - San Antonio to San Angelo, Texas

Whilst there are obvious advantages to staying in a hotel (and I think you need to every couple of weeks), I think in general they suck when you are travelling. You don't get to meet anyone and yesterdays boredom was caused by that.

Anyway today isn't about yesterday, today is about going to meet our forum buddy, Andy H and his family. We caught the 8am bus to San Angelo and Andy met us at the terminal at 14.45 and took us to his house to meet his wife Jane and their 2 daughters, the very lovely Louise and Rosie.

We were made very welcome and treated to shepherd's pie and cold beer. It was nice to be able to kick back in the comfy reclining chairs and watch 'Coupling' and 'Faking it' on BBC America. Equally nice was to have some decent, sane, english conversation.

It's bizarre how you can feel so comfortable in a complete strangers house. The family made every effort to make us feel at home, but for all intents and purposes Mx and I are total strangers. I did go to school with Andy for 1 year, 17 years ago. He was a 6th former and I a mere fruity first former. I would guess the only time that we've spoken, in real life, is when he gave me a school fatigue, although we still need to prove that. To cut a long story short, we both turned up on the forum and I, seeing that Andy was living in Texas, put on some cheeky remark (as I'm prone to do) about how I would be travelling through Texas and could really do with using his washing machine. So from this small acorn conversations started and now here we are in their front lounge, drinking their beer and eating their food, with the washing machine whirring away in the background.

The Dukie factor, as a common bond, no doubt helps and plays a big part in us feeling comfortable, but the biggest factor is that Andy, Jane, Louise and Rosie are all so bloody nice. That and the chocolate biscuits we're troughing.

Wednesday November 12th 2003, Day 60/273 - San Antonio, Texas

Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, Bored, BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOORRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEDDDDDDDDDDDDDD. Did I say I was bored. So bored in fact that I went to the cinema, twice. Once to see 'Radio' which was good and then to see 'School of Rock' which wasn't.

Tuesday November 11th 2003, Day 59/273 - San Antonio, Texas

Started the day with the Imax movie 'Alamo - The Price of Freedom'.  It depicts the heroic 13 day stand of the Texans against the Mexicans in 1836. Afterwards we visited the site of the Alamo which is now a shrine to the people who died in the siege. It spent many years as a warehouse, but then the Americans finally got their house in order. It's interesting to see and free.



Bloo outside the Alamo

Next on the agenda was a trip to the Buckhorn Museum and Saloon for $11.00. It's got loads of artefacts and plenty of stats from the old wild west.



Bloo and Mx

Next we took a stroll down by the river which was really nice. Lots of nice cafes and a really pleasant place to be.

Veterans Day (as Americans call it) passed here without hardly anyone realising it. Apparently there aren't enough troops left to take part in the parades. It's a shame especially after all the excitement they have for Halloween.

I wasn't expecting a lot from San Antonio, but I'm really very pleasantly surprised. It's among the nicest place I've been. You feel very safe, there are no vagrants and it's very clean.

On the tenant front the references have been accepted and the agreement is now being drawn up. Provisional date for moving in is the 18th November 2003, the day it becomes vacant. Long live the tour.

Monday 10th November 2003, Day 58/273 - Dallas, Texas to San Antonio, Texas

Caught the 11.15 greyhound to San Antonio. Before we left a deaf women handed out key rings in the hope of a small donation. I'm not normally tight, but it really is impossible to help everyone who asks, it's quite depressing. And no I didn't keep the key ring. I've let my guard down on a couple of occassions and been stung for a few dollars here and there.

Today has brightened up after the last few days of cloud and rain, although it is still not the oppressive heat that I was expecting.

The scenary is some of the nicest that I've seen. It reminds me of the New Forest, the part when the trees finish on the A31 down to Bournemouth.

We stopped in Waco at 13.00 and Austin at 14.45 before arriving in San Antonio at 16.40 and meeting up with Mx again.  It's nice to see her.  

We went to 'Dicks Last Resort' for the best Rib Eye Steak (Texas style) ever. 'Dicks Last Resort' is reknowned for its abusive waiters. The idea is to give you a light hearted night out. I've had more abusive staff in McDonalds. The waiter said that we were too nice and didn't give him anything to grab on to. What does he expect, we are English!

We're staying in the Crockett Hotel which is now a Holiday Inn right in the centre of San Antonio, overlooking the Alamo.

I've finished book number 5 of the tour. It was Bill Bryson's - 'The Mother Tongue'. It's a fascinating look at how the English language evolved. For someone of my reading capabilities (limited) it took quite a lot of concentration to get through it.

I've got to be honest and say that I'm quite bored of the USA. All the cities are quite similar in appearance and are limited in the variety of decent things to do. I'm going on in the hope that the West Coast will excite me. I've been to 19 cities in 58 days and now I'm left with only 3 to do before Christmas in San Francisco. Las Vegas, Los Angeles and San Diego sound very enticing.

Sunday 9th November 2003, Day 57/273 - Dallas, Texas

I think it's important that we should remember the real reason for Old Boys weekend. To this end I set my alarm for 5 in the morning and shared a minutes silence to think of absent friends and family and also how different the world could have been if it wasn't for the people who gave their lives. It does feel weird being an absent friend.

I thought Texas was supposed to be hot. I've been here 4 days and it's been cold and rainy. Just like home. I asked a local how often they have weather like this. Apparently about 4 days a year.

The Dallas Cowboys are the NFL team that I follow, I have the jersey at home and the cheerleaders calender. They are due to play at home today, but it transpires that they play in Irving (just outside Dallas) and there is no public transport. Needless to say I'm a bit gutted.

Right so there's 3 things to do in Dallas. Firstly you can go to the South Fork Ranch, but it's 20 miles out of town and public transport is crap.  So I had no feasible way of getting there. I'm also from the 'Who Shot JR? Who Cares' school.

Secondly I could go to watch the Dallas Cowboys. I've finally reached a city where the NFL side is at home and I can get tickets. The Dallas Cowboys are the NFL team that I follow, I have the jersey at home and the cheerleaders calender. It transpires that they play in Irving (just outside Dallas) and there is no public transport. Needless to say I'm a bit gutted.

I plumped for option 3 which was to visit downtown Dallas. The first stop was the JFK Memorial. Which is a big yellow cenotaph (empty tomb). I thought it was a bit ugly. Next to the memorial is the John Neely Bryan log cabin. He's the man who is credited with starting Dallas. It was just a log cabin.


JFK's Memorial

Afterwards I went to the 6th floor museum which was formerly the Texas Book Depositery. Of course this is the place from where Lee Harvey Oswald shot JFK. They've recreated the corner from where the shot was fired. It provides a fascinating insight into JFK and his assasination. I do question the American's morbid fascination with these things, but I guess they were moments that changed the world. I still did the audio tour for $13.00 and the chap giving out the headsets asked if I was French. I checked my breathe and my armpits and said 'I don't look that bad do I?'. Outside the musuem you can explore the grassy knoll, Dealey Plaza and listen to any number of conspiracy theories.


The view from the back of JFK's head

I then headed back to the hotel to catch up on my admin. I bought a Dallas Morning News. It's got 20 sections to it and numerous other leaflets. It's 3 inches thick and full of drivel.

Flicking through the TV today the headline news includes 26 National Guard Soldiers who have returned from 4 months in Iraq. Yes that's 26 returning soldiers.

I've also seen the Professional Bullriding World Championship and the Scrabble World Championship. Only in America.

In the evening the film 'Saving Jessica Lynch' premiered on TV. This is the story of the female American soldier who was allegedly tortured when she was captured in Iraq. It's being billed as the rescue that gave a nation hope. I wonder if it is an effort to get Americans to further back the war.

Saturday 8th November 2003, Day 56/273 - Houston, Texas to Dallas, Texas

Congratulation to Nick D-W (H-Wsy 86/91) on the birth of his first child.  Tesni Maya was born today and weighed in at 7lb 8oz.

Happy Birthday Char!

Is it really a year ago that I walked into the Brit was confronted by Andy File who said "Where's that lovely wife of yours?"

"We've separated mate"

The next thing I knew I had a double JD in my hand and I just woke up in Texas.

I should warn you that I am about to share my feelings with you, so if you don't want to see them please look away now. Normal service will be resumed shortly. I've never been the best at displaying or expressing my emotions.  In fact I'm probably the worst, so when I'm on a roll bare with me.

Firstly I should tell you how I ended up in the Brittannia public house in Dover, one Friday in November. Basically it's tradition that each remembrance weekend all the Dukie Old Boys have a reunion. I left the school in 1991 having rather fallen out of love with the place.  That was  until a few years ago when I found a small web community that rekindled my desire for the place or more precisely the people it produced.

I had missed the previous gathering in the July due to a hangover (her's not mine) and with the breakdown of my marriage I was determined not to miss the opportunity to seek solace with my friends and have a bloody good time to boot. I had told no one I was coming. I just bunked of work early and booked myself in to the Travel Inn on the Folkestone Road. From there I walked into town and into the Brit, not entirely sure who I would meet, but I was sure that it would be a friendly face. What followed was a drunken weekend and the spawning of the nickname 'BLOOBUOY'.

For me, and I don't think I'm being too dramatic here, that weekend was a turning point in my life and what followed has been a rollercoaster of a year, involving copious amounts of lager and JD plus a lot of life changing events. That weekend was my first trip back to school alone. Every other year I'd taken Nikki and it made me realise just how much I had missed out on, by neglecting friendships and focusing my attentions in one direction. It also made me appreciate the friends I have.  Everyone stuck by me and showed me support. In adversity you find perspective and the people who really care for you and matter. Everyone who is reading this now has genuinely played a part in me getting back on track and keeping my cheese firmly on my cracker (for the most part).

The forum, my work mates and other friends have all acted as counsellors, although maybe not always realising. All have been superb and I really shouldn't single anyone out, but I'm gonna anyway. I met Big Steve at work. He worked next to me and when he found out about my impending divorce he pestered me and pestered me about coming out with him and his mates. Now I wasn't much of a drinker back then, but we soon changed all that. Every weekend he'd ask me and eventually every weekend we'd go out. We had many a drunken conversation, putting the world to rights and met for lunch regularly (normally in a bar) with his girlfriend, Char.

I asked Big Steve what he was doing for New Year this year.  After a couple of E mails and within a couple of days he'd booked his flight to Denver. What do they say - "Actions speak louder than words". Having said that I'm not sure if he's coming out to see me or Hooters. It is unfair of me to single one person out so I'd better stop or else his head will be getting as big as his belly.

I think most people who have got to know me recently would probably say that I wasn't serious enough to be married. I think Nikki would say that I was too serious. The truth is that I never looked on marriage as a game and knew exactly what I was getting myself into. I'm not proud when I tell people that I'm divorced, not because of some weird sense of loyalty to my ex, but because divorce was not the way it was all supposed to work out. After divorce has been decided, you've only got one option and that's to move on and see what life has in store for you, but it means you know so much more and are better prepared.

The forum and friends intially and laterly travel and this blog have acted as therapy for me. I think alot of the time I gave the impression I was coping or didn't care about the situation. It's not until I've come away that I realise just what an impact it made. I can only apologise for my actions in the past and I mean when I was married.

It was the forum who egged me on to come out here and I thank them for that. Your E mails help me along the way, even the abusive ones. At least it shows you've thought.

Although fundamentally I'm the same person I was a year ago I've notice some big changes in myself. Notably I've got the weed out of my ass. Maybe my problems aren't as bad as others, but i've looked on my year as a huge plus. A year of firsts for me. I mean who couldn't come out of this a better person, with friends like all of you.

Sorry about all that people. I didn't mean to get all slushy, but I guess that that is the purpose of this trip.

Talking of the trip let me tell you what I got up to today. I woke up early at 7.30 feeling a little jaded for a few reasons.

1. It's 7.30 in the morning.
2. I'd had a late night and 1 to many beers.
3. I've got a sore throat.
4. I should be in Dover.
5. I'm a bit travel sick.

That's sick of travelling. I'm sure it's only temporary, but I seem to be forever waiting for a bus. I'm sure everyone suffers from it and I just need a break. Also when I was walking to the terminal some bloke thought I looked like a boy scout. He didn't help my mood much.

Anyway while you guys were having a ball in the Castle, I was on a Greyhound to Dallas, where else would i be. I arrived in Dallas at 15.45 and booked myself in to the Ramada Plaza as there are no hostels in Dallas. I got a good deal through Expedia @ $50 a night as opposed the normal $149.99, but that's the 3rd way that I've spent my earnings. At least I got my first bath since Chicago.

Friday 7th November 2003, Day 55/273 - Houston, Texas

Well I feel like I should be making tracks to Dover for Old Boy's, but instead I find myself in the front seat of a pickup truck with Dawn (from the hostel and driving) and Claire (Aussie) on my way to the Johnson Space Center and Space Centre Houston. It's a bit of a squeeze, but I decided to split Dawn's charge ($25) with Claire rather than go through the torment of public transport. We bought the admission tickets at the local supermarket ($10.95) there by saving ourselves $7.00.

The Johnson Space Centre is about 30 miles south east of Houston and apparently isn't named after my Gran, but after some former president or other. The centre has a tram tour that takes you into the main facility and shows you the historic mission control (where all the space trips from 1962 to 1996 were controlled from, including all the moon missions), the laboratories and testing facilities, hangar X and the astronaut training facilty. Back at the tourist centre you can watch all manner of movies about space and take part in simulations.

The Johnson Space Centre isn't as set up for tourists as the Kennedy Space Centre, but there is far more to see here. The tour could have been made more interesting but our guide was a bit lame.

After the tour we dropped Claire in Galveston, where she is meeting a friend before a cruise round the gulf of Mexico.

Finally I'm in a hostel with some decent sane folk, so I went for a beer with the boys in the evening. Shanon (who is moving down here from Indiana), Kristian (who's a Norwegian, living in France and looking to move to the US), Rob (a canadian who is here on a course) and I zig zagged through the safe streets of Houston to an 'English' pub called 'The Black Labrador'. It was your typical foreign attempt at an English pub. There aren't many English pubs that I can think of that have a giant chess board outside. Anyway we had a nice night and I spent the money I'd earnt all over again.

Moan of the day - Why would the hostel put a short arse like me on the top bunk. I think it's my first time on top since school. What makes it worse is that they are the tallest bunks in the world and then doubly worse is the fact that there is no ladder and no side bars to stop me from falling 6 foot. Shanon is beneath me so I get to stand on his head whenever I am trying to scale the bunk and he's complaining because apparently the bunk rocks all night. I'm complaining because no one else will join me in a bed run of dorm raiding the girls room.

Thursday 6th November 2003, Day 54/273 - Houston, Texas

Howdy Y'all

Didn't really have alot planned today. Was just gonna go into town and see what was about, but the bike shop next door asked for some help so I went and lent a hand. I would say it's my first days work in 54 days, but having spent the last 2 years working for Fluor and forumed for most of that, it's actually my first days work in 2 and a half years. Anyway it was only 4 hours. I wasn't really looking for or needing work, but it's paid for my stay. It was kind of fun. I had thought about going back to retail when I get back, although not on the floor. It's something I understand and think I'm quite good at.

There is nothing that I particularly want to see in Houston, but there were a couple of reasons for coming here. When I was young (probably about 6) my Uncle Jess bought me a T shirt from the Houston Oilers (the franchise has since been sold to another city). It was my introduction American sports and Houston.

My second dealings here were working for Fluor. I wanted to get to Sugar Land (a suburb of Houston) but the public transport sucks (again) so I can't even get a bus out there. All I want to do is flip the offices the bird. Actually I liked my dealings with the people in Houston and if I could only just remember there names I'd give them a call. Give me a break it has been 54 days.

Fact - Did you know that now there is more money spent on boob jobs and viagra than on researching Alzheimers. By 2040 it's reckoned that the elderly will have perky tits and stiff willy's but no idea why. (sorry Mum)

Wednesday 5th November 2003, Day 53/273 - Houston, Texas

Happy Bonfire Night, Y'all. Not a sign of a firework here.

The route last night took us to Montgomery, Alabama (23.45), Mobile, Alabama (3.30) through Mississippi, then Baton Rouge, Louisiana (7.00) finally arriving in Houston, Texas at 12.00. Along the way we lost an hour, but picked up a comidic bus driver. Obviously the drivers change every so often (shame we can't substitute passengers). As we were about to leave Mobile the driver shouts to the bloke outside "If I get lost I'll give you a call" and then turns to us and says "That was a joke, y'all". Maybe we would have laughed had it not been 3.00 am. You just knew she would have crunched the gears if it wasn't an automatic. Anyway all that means is that I am now 6 hours behind you.

Every bus on this route is express. Mainly because there is nothing that gets in the way apart from trees.

I did consider going to New Orleans, but the French thing made me think better of it. Also I've arranged to be with Andy H in San Angelo on the 13th and I want to do Houston, Dallas and San Antonio before I get to Andy's. New Orleans did kind of appeal, mainly for the parties, but the hostels have a bad reputation and my beer tokens are still rationed.

I spent most of the journey sitting next to a guy called Rene, from New York. Suffice to say he spent most of the time talking about himself and bigging up New York. I'll spare you the details.

I thought travelling was supposed to be a brain fart, but mine has been so active that it amazes me. I've even developed a desire to learn more about things and got into reading about them. Until very recently my reading consisted of the Beano and Oor Wullie annuals. Both I got as Xmas presents every year and they took me a year to read.

I've also noticed that when you're away your days get all messed up, but having done 2 overnighters in 3 days I'm all over the shop. That hour I lost hasn't helped. It has really thrown me over the edge.

Anyway from the terminal I walked to the hostel still with my 50lbs of dirty laundry and the hostel office doesn't open until 17.00. So it's another 4.5 hour wait for me and I can't get at the washer. There seems to be 2 nice people at the hostel though. Shanon (boy) and a girl who's just come back from Mexico. They seem really nice, but the conversation went.

Me:- So where you from?
Shanon :- Indiana
Me:- So what you doing here?
Shanon :- Looking for a place to rent.
Mexico girl :- I'm local and I'm just helping him out. We met on the net.
Shanon :- So you wanna come along for the ride?
Me:- Yeah alright. So what were you doing in Mexico?
Mexico Girl :- Preaching on a Mission, I'm a preacher.
Shanon (to me) :- You coming with us?
Me:- Maybe
Shanon (to preacher) :- We should phone the police and see what the crime rate is like in that area.
Preacher :- I know the area well. I was part of the crime rate until I was saved.
Shanon :- Praise the lord.
Preacher :- Praise him, indeed.
Me :- .....
Shanon :- So you coming with us
Me:- No. I'll just get my head down.

I eventually checked in. It's okay here for $14 a night. It's out of downtown and in the museum district.  Houston is massive and you need a car to get anywhere. The hostel has some funny rules. Like you don't get a key for the room and the are locked between 10.00 and 17.00 everyday. Managed to do my washing.

Tuesday 4th November 2003, Day 52/273, Atlanta, Georgia to Houston, Texas

First stop today is the Martin Luther King centre. I was escorted, through a particularly ugly bit of town, by a homeless chap by the name of Ernest. He approached me and asked "What I was doing here?"  Not in a confrontational way, more concerned for my safety.  He was nice and just wanted to help out. I was happy for him to be there and plus I couldn't shake him off. Having emerged from the the dodgy area, that had been lined with homeless people, many of ethnic origin, you enter the area protected by the National Park Service. Ernest scooted off with the change I'd given him to feed himself (or get a hit) and said he'd be back to walk me out (like the 'nam).

The protected area is notably different, being very clean and full of tourists (of non ethnic origin). It all seems a bit bizarre to me. Are people blind or do they just not want to see what's around them. The area was protected in 1980 to preserve the areas in which MLK grew up 'for the inspiration of the future generations' (that's what the blurb says). The area contains the house in which he was born, a visitor centre and museum, the church he preached in and also his tomb. For me the experience was spoiled by the surrounding area, not because of the fear, but because so little seems to have been done to improve the situation. All this occurs within 2 miles of the where the Olympic stadium was and right on the doorstep of where the one of the most important civil rights leaders was born and grew up. The Memphis Civil Rights Musuem has more to it and is more immotive.  This is just a little clinical.


Ebenezer Baptist Church


MLK's hearse



MLK's resting place

When I was done, needless to say, there was no sign of Ernest. He was either filling his belly or in crack heaven. That's my contribution to the problem, but it meant I had to walk back to town myself (saving myself $5 in the process).

I headed for the Georgia Dome, which I thought was the Olympic Stadium because everyone raves about it. It turns out that it was opened in 1992 and although it was the not the main stadium, it did host the gymnastics, handball and basketball tournaments for the 1996 games. It's also hosted 2 Superbowls and numerous other events like monster trucks. The stadium is part of a complex of convention centres which is the real reason why people come to Atlanta (because the companies they work for send them here).

Anyway I haven't seen a stadium for a while so I booked a $6 tour. The tour consists of all the normal stuff like seeing the observation deck, the press area, the skyboxes, the posh seats, the scum bags seats, the locker room and then a walk on the field. The turf is this new kind of astroturf that feels like real grass and no longer damages you. Anyone who has had an astroturf burn will know how much they hurt. I burnt my chin once, but that's a whole other story.

I digress, the stadium holds a massive 72,000 people and is the biggest stadium with a cable supported roof or something like that. It cost $214,000,000 to build. Wouldn't that house 72,000 people? It's a great facilty and there really isn't a bad seat in the house. It's not the most lavish I've seen, but it's very practical.

I was a little peeved that this wasn't the Olympic Stadium and even more surprised when they told me that the stadium had been cut up and made into a rounders field. I had to go see. Bizarrely there's no metro stop at the Olympic Stadium (I should stop calling it that) so you've got to walk. I don't suppose the people who came to Olympics were excited about that. I walked under the bridge that hold the Olympic rings and where the flame was lit (now it's rotting away).

 The first thing you see is a car park that has been made to look like a rounders stadium (diamond and all). On closer inspection it turns out that this is a memorial to the old home of the Atlanta Brave's (Americas oldest rounders franchise). In the middle of the car park is a plaque (in the shape of baseball) where Hank Aaron hit his 715th Home Run. They actually went to the extent of imploding the old stadium and making it into a memorial car park for the new stadium. This place is crackers.


The Olympic Stadium (now)



Some bloke called Hank Aaron

Question - What would you do with an Olympic Stadium? Would you cut it in half and name it after a media tycoon? That's what Atlanta did. If you look at the plans of the original stadium it was always the idea to have it as a rounders stadium. Now it's called Turner Field. Named after Ted Turner the head man of Turner Media, producing CNN, TNS and other stuff. Wonder how many pockets of the Olympic committee he lined. At least it's being used for something and it isn't left rotting, but I think it stinks.

Walking back up Olympic Way all the quotes on the columns stuck in my throat. I wonder what Atlanta got from the games and I question the motives of the Olympic movement. It appears that everyone in Atlanta has forgotten the games, but what have they got to remember them by. Half a stadium, a rusting candlestick and a park that is still being redeveloped 7 years after the games finished.


Yeah right


The Olympic flame


Some wall


Atlanta isn't a good example for the Olympics. What it does have, is 2 Hooters and people being cleansed by preachers in the streets. I think my feelings for Atlanta probably sum up my feelings for America. It's got a lot of good things, it's got a lot of bad things and it would probably be more enjoyable in another country. Anyway I'm leaving tonight for Houston, Texas.

I walked to the Greyhound terminal at 16.00 for my 21.30 bus. I headed so early mainly because I had run out of things to do, partly because I have an inbuilt insistance on never being late for anything (thanks Dad) and also because it's best not to be out at night (that goes for all of America).

They weighed my bag today and it's 50lbs. It suddenly struck me that I'm carrying 50lbs of dirty laundry. I brought about 7 days worth of clothes and I haven't done any laundry since Kissimmee so you do the sums. Note to self - 1st task in Houston is to find a washer.

Although the Atlanta terminal is big it's a bit ramshackle (even for Greyhound). They load the buses in the road and the baggage claim is outside in a tent. I wonder if that's a reflection of the number of extra tourists that the Olympics has brought.

It would have been a boring 5.5 hours had we not been royally entertained by Atlanta's version of the dancing queen (a 60 year old with a walker prancing about the terminal). The cheese has definitely slipped off the cracker. It was very amusing. You couldn't make eye contact with anyone else in the terminal without laughing.

Monday 3rd November 2003, Day 51/273, Atlanta, Georgia

Well there I was back in Jacksonville waiting for the a connecting bus again. It feels like less than 2 weeks ago, but I've done so much in that time. The bus left at 4.15 and finally it looked like I would get some decent company. I was sat with a young lady called Marie. Can you guess where she's from? That's right, Michigan. After the initial promise of some decent conversation it deteriorated rapidly. All she would do is laugh at me whenever I turned to say anything. I have no problem in making people laugh, but only when I've said something funny. I guess the Michigan thing explained it. Still the Georgia countryside was nice to look at. Lots of farms and cottonfields.

I arrived in Atlanta, Georgia at 11.00.  I decided to treat myself so I booked into the Motel 8 at 100 Luckie Street for $69 a night. I'd slept okay so I decided to make the most of the afternoon. The first stop was the Bicentennial Olympic Park which was bombed during the 1996 games. They still haven't decided what to do with the place and are still working on it.




I then went to the CNN Centre to do the studio tour for $8. It's amazing the lengths that they go to, to produce such crap 'World' news. Mind you the world is America. In fairness the tour was fascinating, but it got a little tiresome when they showed us the same thing for the 5 different news channels produced here.

Next was a trip to Coca Cola World for $6. Yep, Coke was first made here, in Atlanta over 100 years ago. It was a great little tour that told the story of the world's first world wide brand looking at all the memorablia and advertising. You get to sample a lot of the different drinks produced for the rest of the world. Of course you exit through the shop and although I was tempted, I left empty handed. It was kind of quirky and fun.






I walked back through underground Atlanta which was nice and up to the hostel to scope out the area. The hostel is in a much nicer area, but it's miles away from anything that I want to see and do. Although I quite like Atlanta, I'm only gonna stay a day, mainly because I can't be arsed to move to the hostel. Everyone is really pleasant (and why wouldn't they be). It's difficult to find any obvious signs of the prosperity that the Olympics is supposed to bring to a city. The only obvious legacy is the carpets in the metro system.



Sun burn update - I'm very appealing. I've decided that it's genetic for me to go red and then peel. (Thanks Dad)

Sunday 2nd November 2003, Day 50/273, South Beach Miami, Florida to Atlanta, Georgia

With my ears still ringing from Halloween I woke in a dorm with it's usual odd mix. Somehow the hostel managed to put together 6 people who have no effective way of communicating with each other. We've got an Italian who has come to Miami looking for work. A Dane who has come to Miami to sleep for Denmark (he's always in bed, whatever time of day it is). There's an Argentine who sits outside and smokes all day. It's great because when I say 'Maradona is a cheating bastard' he doesn't understand. As for the bloke in the bunk above me, I have no idea where he is from (I think he talks caveman) or what he gets up to.  The bed is always shaking (so I don't really want to know). Finally there's the big fat chef who is another escapee from Michigan. He snores like a pig and he also has (and I should point out that I don't make a habit of looking at mens bodies or have a problem with people who do) little bruises all over his fat body. I wouldn't eat at his restaurant. Anyway they are all examples of Miami's long timers who were attracted by the white beach and reputation.

After 16 days in Florida I'm heading to Atlanta, Georgia today. I'm determined to leave from the closest Greyhound terminal this time. So I took a local bus, but as Mx has said the buses no longer stop at the Greyhound terminal (it's that dodgy). I was confident that I could walk from the main local bus terminal to the Greyhound terminal as I have a map in my rough guide and it really isn't far. Mx will confirm that my sense of direction is legendary, but when I got to where I thought the terminal should be, guess what, there was no sign. I mean nothing, not even a building, just a desolate piece of wasteland.

I asked a local policewomen who was parked there (not always a sign of a good neighbourhood) and she told me it has been moved and directed me down a street that looked like downtown Beirut. Being the brave bunny that I am I hailed a cab. He laughed at me and said it was only about 500 yards away. "Are you sure you want a cab" he said "Not now that you've mocked" I thought, 'I'll show him'. Well it was the most intimidating and longest 500 yards that I've ever walked. Worse than walking to the Dep Head office when you've just been kicked out of R.E. by Rev Fozz for the 6th successive week. It smelt like an old people's home (not Mr Davey's office, but Beirut) if you get my drift. I don't think these homeless people are toilet trained. It's pretty bizarre, because for about 10 square blocks it's all disused warehouses and derelict building, but at either end you've got a brand new sports arena (One where the Miami Heat play and the other part of the University). Also just to the north they are constructing a brand new shopping mall. This part of downtown is within view of 4 luxury liners moored in Miami Harbour. Can't people see that these guys need homes not shops or basketball arena's. This country has got so many things arse about face.



When I got the the terminal, it was a portacabin, I never asked why (I probably wouldn't like the answer), but it explains why there is nothing at the old site. Suffice to say I wish I'd gone to the other terminal.  There were a few others ( and I mean a few) who'd risked this terminal. Notably there was the Miami version of Daisy (from the Springer bus to Chicago). That means she was slightly more glamorous (she had no holes in her clothes), but she still wittered away. I just wanted to smack her. The chap sat next to me was reading a magazine and kept mumbling "That's a hard ass truck." Mate, it's a pick up with some plastic bits stuck on and covered in stickers. It turns out that he himself paid $500 for a similar 'truck' and then spent $70,000 on doing it up. He justified it by saying that at least he didn't spend it on crack. 1 question chum, why would you spend $70,000 on a truck and then go Greyhound. It turns out that he's a recovering heroin addict, the penny drops.

Anyway we left Miami at 16.15 and headed up the east coast of Florida arriving in Jacksonville at about 3.00. The only thing of note that happened was I think I broke my big toe in the toilet. I was doing what people do in toilets when the bus stopped suddenly and threw me across the cubicle causing me to stub my toe. I suppose I should have sat down, but the toilet is a complicated system, comprising of a raised hole with some disinfectant poured down. Towards the end of a journey, the fuller the hole gets and the bumpier the ride is, then it has been known for people to experience 'splashback'. Next time I'll hold it, I try not to use them anyway, but I was bursting. Is this what we've descended to?

The only other thing from the journey was a couple of home boys (one of whom was on crutches) had a conversation at full volume. They regaled us with their stories of when they'd been shot and when they got busted by the police. The guy on crutches had been shot in the leg. Their parents must be so proud.

It amazes me the diversity of the people of greyhounds. Mainly scum bags.

Saturday 1st November 2003, Day 49/273, South Beach Miami, Florida

Happy Birthday Auntie Janette

Ugh, hangover. Today I shall mainly be doing nothing.

1. because there's not much to do, apart from the strutting and
2. because I have a sore head, my body aches and I can't hear a bloody thing.

I took a quick walk up the street and found a really pleasant shopping area. It's got street cafe's, nice shops and even a book shop. I found a Bill Bryson (the Mother Tongue) under fiction.

It's kinda weird shopping today, because all the shops are taking down there halloween decor and putting up their Christmas stuff. Mind you this is in a shop that calls the girl who work on the till a front end associate!!!

Back at the hostel it's another strange mix of folk. A lot of travellers come this was way because of the reputation of the hostel and South Beach. They are both really nice, but the only thing to do here is 'be here' if you catch my drift. I'm not sure that's enough for me. A lot of the travellers are youngsters who seem to have a pot of money (or their parents do) and they are out here partying. I'm not sure they know why they're travelling and there probably just wasting time until someone comes along and exchanges the silver spoon for another one. I know why I'm travelling and why I came to Miami (because of it's reputation), but I'll probably leave with a different take on the place. I need to be seeing things and doing stuff. I could be sat at home wasting time.

Friday 31st October 2003, Day 48/273, South Beach, Miami, Florida

Happy Halloween, America is officially mad on it.

I should have realised my marriage was doomed when my ex mother in law was born on halloween.

Mx left for Key West (good luck with that) this morning so I'm left to fend for myself again. The hostel is excellently located just 2 blocks from the beach, in the middle of South Beach's art deco district and runs parallel to Ocean Drive. So I went out to explore and didn't really find a great deal, apart from a beach. The beach is so white that when the sun shines it hurts your eyes. Even on a blowy (but nice) day like today the beach is full of beautiful people. You know the feeling when you go somewhere and you feel there are 2 types of humans. Beautiful ones and you. Maybe its just me then.

It doesn't help that I looked like a half cooked chicken and you could fry eggs on my shoulders. Just my shoulders mind, everything else is white.



The view does provide you with the opportunity to view some very decent eye candy, but we all know I'm deeper than that. So I didn't stay long.

There are people milling about everywhere, mainly looking beautiful, but so many are walking their rats on ropes (whilst looking beautiful).

I'm getting really tired of sweating everytime I step out of an air conditioned room. I've had to stretch the budget and buy some anti perspirant, but I'm not sure which smells worse, my BO or the Right Guard.

I headed back to the hostel via Ocean Drive (with my soft top down, so my hair can flow) and the best thing about it, is its reputation.



When I got back to the hostel I met up with Kissimmee Kev and we decided on a plan of action for tonights Halloween festivities. The Americans take it so seriously and during the afternoon you could sense the build up. As we looked around the streets everyone was in a costume. Even the McDonalds was decorated. There were GI Janes, nurses, orgasm donors, Morticias, umpires, cowboys, horny devils, police women, grim reapers, school girls, wonder women and even a male fairy. No cheerleaders though, much to my disappointment. They really went to town, in fact they went way past the town. I even saw a 7 foot black guy walk into the supermarket and ask where they kept the red suspenders. I hope I don't bump into him tonight.

I had my costume, but Kev thought he might be a little left out so we queued (yes queued) to get into a fancy dress shop and came out with nothing. So Kev's going as an Essex boy and I'm going as a sunburnt (shoulders only) Nelson Mandela.



We went out traveller style, which involves getting the cheapest booze from the off license, it's similar to drinking at school. Once you are nicely swaying you head to a dodgy bar and have a few liveners (these are the only drinks you pay for). After the dodgy bar we headed to 'The Crobar' at dead on 10 to have as many free drinks as possible and make use of the free tickets that the hostel gave us.

'The Crobar' was just opposite the hostel and was mad. The sound system was awesome and the bass was thumping. It was full of beautiful people, but we were passed caring. When we left at 3.30 people were still queing round the corner to get in.

Thursday 30th October 2003, Day 47/273, Key West, Florida to South Beach, Miami, Florida

Well I had a strange night last night, I don't mind telling you. The dorm I'm in and the hostel in general is full of older Americans as opposed to young travellers. I had a chat with a couple of the other blokes. The first guy was a big American, probably about the same age as me. His wife wants a divorce (I'm not the right bloke to give marriage guidance I told him divorce was a good thing) so he came down to Key West (where he's from) from West Beach, Miami (where he lives) to party for a week. He's been kipping in the park (you could smell that), but had been kicked out by the police last night so had to get a bed. He'd met his wife on a radio station dating game and 4 months later she forgot to take the pill and fell pregnant. His take on it was:-

"Sh1t man, I love the kid, but it was her ******* fault that she fell pregnant. He'd be better off with another family."

When I asked him if she'd take him back he said.

"Yeah she'd take me back like a shot if I changed my ways, but sh1t man, I tell her I can't change coz I'm creative, I'm a writer."

More like:-

"I'm a slacker and responsibilty scares me"

The other guy in the room was in his 40's and came down from Michigan (we all know why) to do some work during the winter. He confirmed that when he was in jail, his cell was nicer. To be honest these guys were quite nice, I just wouldn't trust them.

'Knuckles', the guy who threatened to put me through the wall, didn't get in until 5 am. I didn't disturb him. The other guys in the room went out partying and weren't back before I left in the morning.

I got up early as, for various reasons, I didn't sleep well. The slacker had developed a brutal hacking cough from sleeping out over the last few nights. Every time he coughed I ducked in case he brought up a lung. The old jailbird snored like every third breathe was his last. I kept thinking I might be called into action to give him the kiss of live. 'Knuckles' had to rock himself to sleep. He was like an 18 stone baby, with muscles on his muscles, having a fit. I didn't tell him that.

Like I say I exited early and that meant a 2 hour wait at the Greyhound stop. The terminal is out of town at the airport, but the bus stops twice a day in downtown, you just need to already have a ticket. I am glad to be leaving, but also a little sad in the true contrasting feelings this place has given me. It is very beautiful, especially when the sun shines and you could have a great time here.

I caught the 10.45 bus to Miami. It was nice to travel by day again and I arrive in Miami @ 15.30. There are a number of Miami Greyhound terminals. There's Miami airport, Miami downtown, Miami, Miami West, Miami North Beach...... I got off at Miami which needless to say was the wrong one. So I had to get a public bus. Miami sprawls across the landscapes and is screaming sleazy at me. To top it all, it's peeing it down and blowing a gale.

After a change of bus and an hour long journey I eventually make it to the Clay Hotel and Hostel, 1438 Washington Avenue, South Beach. $14 a night is very reasonable for a bed in a 6 bed dorm. This is supposed to be one of the nicest hostels in the country and although it's good, I've been to better. It's all about opinions and peoples perceptions.

After a brief search I hit up with Mx again and we went and had a meal (my first decent meal in ages) and chat about all we've done over the past couple of weeks. It was really nice.

To keep you up to date, I got an E mail today from my letting agent to say that they might have found me a tenant subject to references. Fingers crossed they'll move in when my current tenants move out on the 17th November.