Thursday, December 04, 2003

Tuesday 25th November 2003, Day 73/273 - Phoenix, Arizona to Las Vegas, Nevada

Never let it be said that the Germans don't have a sense of humour. Last night a couple of Germans arrived in the dorm and we got on to the subject of travelling, as you inevitably do. "So where you off to next" I said. "Las Vegas, I want to win my trip" He replied chuckling. He found it funny. He must have been practising that for ages.

I too am on my way to Vegas. I need (for no other reason other than I NEED) to get there early so I got up at 7 to make the 9.00 Greyhound. I ended up getting the 8.15 Casino Special which isn't operated by greyhound, but is cheaper. The Greyhound is $50 one way, but the Casino Special is $38 return. I'm not returning to Phoenix, but they don't know that. It's gets in earlier too.

I had my pack weighed again 53lbs which is over the limit until I unzipped my fanny pack (as we Americans call it). The pack is bursting at the seams with memorabilia and a broken camera. I need a collection from home.

I didn't get much sleep last night. I know it sounds sad, but I was so excited about going to Vegas.

The drive takes us through the desert and the dusty red hills where the massive cacti flourish.

We reached Parker, Arizona at 11.45. After Parker we drive through the most stunning scenery that I've ever seen, unfortunately it is littered with signs that you are not the 1st to be here. Basically you can never forget that you're in America. There are RV parks, golf courses and holiday homes in the peaceful, tranquillity and beautiful Arizona desert. Unfortunately it is now not that secluded as the tourist traps are bountiful.

There is a place en route called Lake Havasu which is absolutely stunning. Or at least it was until it was discovered. It now hosts the original London Bridge which was bought by an American and placed here. Just a little fact I thought I'd throw in.

It was another bus from hell, full of Mexicans talking and laughing in a language that I don't understand. I think the whole bus was from the same family as whenever the baby cried (which was often) they passed it on to the next row of seats to see if they could settle it.

My solitude was relieved somewhat when the driver put on a movie. It's only the second movie I've seen on all my bus journeys. It was only 'Bird on a Wire' which isn't a great film and now looks dated, but it does contain the memorable line.

Goldie Hawn - 'Remember you said you wanted to have sex in some place weird?'
Boyfriend - 'Yes'
Goldie Hawn - 'Well how about Detroit?'

How right she is. I've been to Detroit and survived.

From what I have been told of Vegas I expected it to be a shimmering oasis in the far distant desert with nothing much more than a strip and a small downtown, that gradually loomed larger. The reality is very different. Basically you climb over a hill and then the full enormity of Vegas is exposed. It's huge. I didn't expect there to be so many people living here. I thought it was more like a resort for people to get away to. However even from this distance it wasn't hard to spot my hotel and the other casinos on the strip.

I'm staying in the Stratosphere for one night for $39.00 and then in the Sahara for $30.00. After that the prices go bonkers for Thanksgiving and the weekend so I move to the hostel, which is a little off the strip. I wanted to spend at least some time staying on the strip to find out what it's all about.

The Stratosphere's claim to fame is that it is the tallest structure west of the Mississippi. Yawn!!! Every tower I go to claims to be something or other. I think when I get home I'm going to put a sign on door that says 'Stuarts Room. Home of the biggest TV in this house'. Who cares.

What is more interesting about the Stratosphere is that it has a rollercoaster at the top, which I will explore tomorrow.

The bus arrived in Vegas at 15.40 (I've lost another hour btw, so now 8 hours behind) and booked myself into my room. I don't care what any of you think of me becuase I have arrived, Baby. Do you think Vegas makes you obnoxious?

Anyhow I've sorted out my budget. Basically anything goes as long as I keep my flight ticket home and my pants on. After that was sorted I wasted no time and hit the strip.

The Stratosphere has now formed the very north of the strip and it is a long way down to the Mandalay Bay, but there's plenty to see and do on the way down. I spent the initial time just people watching and looking around the stunning casinos, struggling to keep my eyes in their sockets. I'm glad I was on my own because coz I was in awe of this place and wondering just what to do next. It wouldn't have taken much encouragement to get on the tables and lose my money. I do know how to play the games (except Craps) but I preferred to play dumb. What did surprise me was that on the free tables the dealers never asked people to come and play. They just stood there and smiled.

My highlights of the casinos were:-

The Venetian which was magnificent. You can take a gondola ride around the canals, or shop around an indoor St Marks Square that has realistic sky. What was most surprising was that it did Venice better than Venice does (I had a very bad experience in the real Venice).





Next one down is 'Paris'. You can see a miniature Eiffel Tower and Arche de Triomphe without the traffic congestion or smell.



Next was the 'MGM Grand' which is the world's largest hotel. That's about all I can say about it. It rather passed me by. Maybe I missed something.



The 'Mandalay Bay' marks the southern end of the strip and is connected by monorail to the 'Luxor' and the 'Excalibur'. This seems a little excessive to me as they are only about 100 yards apart.




'New York, New York' recreates Manhattan although there was no sign of Harlem or the Bronx, but there was the Brooklyn Bridge. It also had the 'Manhattan Express' rollercoaster, but at $12 a ride I decided not to partake. What was the point it also had a ESPN Zone so I was in my element.




Next in line is the 'Bellagio' which is magnificent. It has revolving doors that revolve automatically and the dancing fountains. I think that says it all.



'Caesars Palace' is amazing too.

The 'Mirage' is the home of the 'Siegfried and Roy - White Lion Show', although they have currently left the building.

Having wandered in and out of many casinos. Technically that isn't true. It's very easy to wander into the casinos, they make that very simple with big bright lights and travelators.  As for finding your way out, they make that nearly impossible. The insides are like mazes and they even black out the windows so you can't see any daylight. There are plenty of signposts, but none that point to the exits. These casino owners are very wily.

I eventually found a slot machine that I liked. I prefer the ones that involve an element of skill as opposed to the sheer luck of the push and play ones. I can't say I won, but I did come out of a couple of casinos with the same I went in with.

Vegas has no concept of time. I eventually got back to my room at 4.00 am. It reminded me of the Only Fools and Horses where Rodney and Cassandra are going through a rough patch so Rodney goes to the casino every night. Raquel persuades Del to go and help Rodney out and put him back on the right tracks. He joins Rodney at the casino and consoles and advises him. Eventually Rodney agrees to go home to Cassandra and patch it up. When they leave the casino it is broad daylight and the next day. Brilliant.