Thursday 4th December 2003, Day 82/273 - San Diego, California

Walked up to Balboa Park today. It's the home of San Diego's museums and the zoo. It's a bit of a walk. Americans would have driven it, but that's because they're fat and lazy and if there not fat then they're just lazy. In fact thinking about it I would have driven if I had a car!

The zoo charges $19.50 for admission and is reportedly the best zoo in the world. It's actually really nice and a pleasant environment for the animals, although I'm sure they'd prefer to be roaming free in whichever country they come from.

Most of the animals were sleeping. I'll cut them a break as I suppose they aren't just here for my photographic pleasure. The zoo's walkways are quite steep in places and thankfully not ideal for pushchairs and wheel chairs. I don't think I've seen such a wide variety of animals or species of animals in one place.

The highlights for me were the orangutans (or anything else that reminded me of my Dad (private joke)). The black panther (that reminded me of my cats, Bloo and Red). Tthe 2 African spurred tortoises getting it on ("Look daddy those 2 turtles are doing push ups" one child was heard to say) The ghiral (a sort of long nosed crocodile). Watching 2 polar bears swimming and playing was pretty special, as was seeing the panda's.



















Yep it's fair to say I had a nice time at the zoo. On the way back I went to my first ever used book shop to do a book swap.

Back at the hostel I met up with Mx who has just arrived in town. We went to TGI Friday's for dinner and exchanged tales. Mine of Vegas and dodgy phone calls. Her's of the Dude Ranch and being a 'Badly Drawn Boy' groupie.

Afterwards we went to watch 'Love Actually'. I was a bit unsure about watching it as I thought it would be a chick flick. In fact it was very funny. It was made funnier by watching it in an American cinema with an American audience. They really didn't get half the humour. The story was a bit rubbish, but the message good.

Wednesday 3rd December 2003, Day 81/273 - San Diego, California

Oops signed off a bit early last night. I thought I was tired, but then decided I was hungry instead, so i went to the TGI Friday's opposite the hostel. Not a particularly significant event in my life, but I did have a decent steak and my first drink since the white russian incident.

Not satisfied with just food and drink I went to the cinema to watch Gothika for $9.25. It's the new Halle Berry pyschological thriller that also stars Robert Downey Jr and Penelope Cruz. I thought it was excellent. I imagine its a bit like silence of the lambs. There were a couple of moments in the film that made the whole audience jump. I nearly wet myself and I'm glad I'm in a dorm tonight and not in a room on my own.

First thing today was to enjoy the free waffles that the hostel provides. You can eat as many as you can be bothered to cook. I say enjoyed them I only enjoyed the fact that they were free, not a big waffle fan.

Today I'm off to Sea World.  I bought an all day bus ticket for $5 and then caught the blue line trolley out to the Old Town. From there I caught the #9 bus that takes you all the way to Sea World. The lady at the ticket desk relieves you of $44.95 for the privilege of entering the establishment.

This is the original Sea World. There are 2 main rides. Firstly 'Wild Artic' simulates a helicopter ride out to the Artic and then when you get off you get to view the Biluga Whales, Walrus's and Polar Bears. The simulator is really good. The second ride is 'Shipwreck Rapids' which is probably the fastest and wettest rubber ring ride I've been on.

There are other sights to see, like the 'Manatee Rescue', 'Shark Encounter' (with the tunnel under the great whites), 'Sea Lion and Seals' (or floating turds (private joke)), 'Reef' (where you can feed the rays and see the 'Moray Eel Caverns'), 'Penguin Encounter', many aquariums and tides and finally the 'Rocky Point Reserve' where you get to interact with dolphins. I got to stroke a dolphin.  It felt like a wet tyre and nothing like I expected. The dolphin soon realised that I was tight and hadn't brought him a tray of fish ($4) like everyone else, so buggered off. It was still special.

There are also a number of good shows to watch. Like 'Dolphin Discovery' (amazing creatures), 'Fools with Tools' (very funny Sealion and Otter show), 'Pets Rule', 'The Haunted Lighthouse 4D' and of course 'Shamu's Adventure', what everyone comes to Sea World for. It's incredible.

You can also take a 'Skytower Ride' (265 foot) or the 'Bayside Sky Ride' (gondola across 'Mission Bay') but they cost $5.

It was a beautiful day and it seemed strange slapping on the sun cream in December. I had a great day with Shamu and his friends.












In the evening I finished book 7 ('The Brethren' by John Grisham) and bought my new phone.

Tuesday 2nd December 2003, Day 80/273 - San Diego, California

Got woken up at 5.00 by a phone call. "Would you like some company?" a man's voice said. "No" I said and hung up. It rang again. "Would you like a blow job?" I just hung up and left the phone off the hook.

I didn't sleep to well after that. So I checked out and took the short walk down to the hostel. It's the USA Hostel at 726 5th Avenue and is in the same chain as the Vegas hostel. To that end it's very similar. These are purely meant for international travellers. They cook a dinner every night for $4. The dorm beds cost $19 a night. They also arrange tours to Mexico and pub crawls at night. It's situated in the heart of the gaslamp area of San Diego which is very vibey.

I've got a few days here and also it's halfway through the day so I opted to spend the day at the library abusing the free internet access, with all the smelly vagrants. The hostel offers 10 minutes for $1 which is cheap for America, but not free. I'm so behind on my blog and responding to E mails it's unreal. My blog is written up in my journal, I just need to transfer it to the computer. I've got so many unanswered E mails as well. I like having a full inbox, but I hate not answering them.

Apparently my afternoon in the library made me miss the visit of Governor Arnie to town. The shame.

Incidently San Diego has an interesting variation on the street names. It uses letters as opposed to numbers on the cross streets.

Monday 1st December 2003, Day 79/273 - San Diego, California

I can't believe it's December. I was en route to the hostel, in the early hours of the morning, when I passed the Pickwick Hotel.  Actually it was right next door to the Greyhound Terminal, so I checked in for $55 a night. I spent the day sleeping, rehydrating and writing up my journal (I'm about 10 days behind).

Sunday 30th November 2003, Day 78/273 - Las Vegas, Nevada to San Diego, California

I have no recollection of what happened last night. I was definitely sick as I have the stains to prove it. Luckily today is washing day. I haven't been sick for 15 years and never been sick through alcohol. That's another first for this year. At least I didn't get the chance to lose any more money.

I've never forgotten what I did before. I've always had some vague memory, but not this time. I could have got married or anything. After all this is Vegas. I need to put the pieces back together.

I spent the day with Mark, Jill and Sarah trying to work out what happened. When we worked it out 2 40oz bottles of beer are equivalent to 8 regular bottles of beers drunk in about an hour. I hadn't eaten all day apart from the waffles and half a roll. The plan was to eat out.  I never got that far.

Gradually other events started cropping up. Apparently we went to the bar in the hostel and I drank pints of white russian (minus the milk) that Sarah told me to try. I vaguely remember sipping one and saying it was nice. Apparently I thought it was so nice that I took a glass with me whilst walking up the street.

We then got the bus to the Stratosphere where we spent some time before walking to the Sahara. It was outside the Sahara that I sat on the pavement saying for Mark to leave me and that I would be alright.  I just couldn't go any further. Thankfully he called me a cab, gave me $10 and that got me back to the hostel. It's scary not remembering, but we had a good crack when we looked back on it.

I said goodbye to Mark and shared a cab with Jill and Sarah to the Greyhound station. My ticket to San Diego cost $52. It was packed as it's the end of Thanksgiving. They had to lay on an extra bus in the end. Sarah and Jill enjoyed their Greyhound experience. They reckon it was worse that anything they went on in Thailand.

We caught the 18.15 to LA. I'll definitely be back to vegas. It's an amazing place. I spent too much money, but it is just so infectious.

We had an amusing driver. His annoucements went along the lines of :-

"If you're moving about the coach, please be sure to hold on to the overhead racks, as I will be travelling at speeds of 70 mph. If I need to stop suddenly and you are not holding on, then you will still be travelling at 70 mph."

"For your convenience this bus is fitted with a restroom. You will notice that I didn't say for your comfort, and after you've used it you will see why."

The American next to me was nice enough apart from every time he wanted to say something to me, he kept digging me in the ribs. We were talking about exotic foods and he said that he had a friend who'd eaten lamb. He looked at me kind of strange when I said that I ate it every week back home. I'm gobsmacked that this guy thinks eating lamb is weird.

We had an awful journey in holiday traffic. We arrived an hour and a half late in Los Angeles at 2.00 where I said bye to Sarah and Jill, who are heading to San Francisco. I caught the 3.30 to San Diego, where they had to lay on 4 extra buses. We eventually arrived in San Diego at 5.00.

At a rest stop on the way an English Guy went to get off the bus and said to the driver "Can I get off and smoke a fag?"

"What do you want to shoot a gay guy for?" said the driver. True story!

Saturday 29th November 2003, Day 77/273 - Las Vegas, Nevada

Surprisingly I did wake up at 7.00 and enjoyed the free waffle breakfast that the hostel offers. Today I'm off to the Grand Canyon on a tour that the hostel arranges for $99.00. There are 13 of us back packers crammed into a minivan being driven by a mad smelly Kiwi.

The first stop was Lake Mead which was created when the Hoover Dam was built in 1931. It's the largest drinking water reservoir in the world.

Next stop was the Hoover Dam which is the largest dam in the western hemisphere. It's impressive especially when you consider when it was built. The power that it generates supplies the whole south west of America. It's vital and without it there would be no LA or Vegas. Thinking about it, maybe vital is a bit strong!





We continued on our way listening to Tears for Fears, Duran Duran, Eurythmics, Culture Club, T Pau and Wham. It didn't half remind me of my forum buddies, but why do people on buses feel the need to use my shoulder as a pillow?

We had a quick stop off in a little place called Dolan Springs, just to have a laugh at the locals. It's a real out in the sticks place. You wonder why anyone would want to live in a place like this, in a trailer.



Continuing on our way we turned off the main highway and onto a dirt track for 14 miles travelling at warp speed Kiwi. I swear he's got a death wish. We were travelling at 60 down an unmade road with 10mph speed limit. His thinking being that the less the wheels touch the ground the less the vehicle bounces. The joshua trees in the desert are impressive none the less. I just hope we don't hit one or a boulder for that matter.

We arrived at a small airport from where you can take an 8 minute helicopter ride for $115. It is also here where the mad Kiwi had to pay our entry to the native american tribe whose land the Grand Canyon is on.

It was a short drive to our viewing point. The eastern and northern sides of the canyon are about a 1000 feet higher than the western and you can see for miles. You have to watch your step as all of a sudden the land just opens up in front of you, no fences, no health and safety. At this point it's 9 miles across and a 4,000 foot drop. It was a view of the canyon that very few people get. Most people either view it from the eastern side or take plane or helicopter trip. It was time for a moments reflection to think about what a lucky I am.









Them there ickle specks are heli flopters


Joshua trees.

It was truly awesome sat on a rock with nothing but 4,000 foot of air beneath you. The photos just cannot do justice to the breathtaking beauty of this place.

After lunching on the rim we moved further down to get a more stomach churning view up the canyon. There are no barriers, just alot of open space. I'm surprised more people haven't died, but it is truly stunning.

The mad Kiwi played Metallica the whole way back as they cross all musical boundaries. I mean everyone likes heavy metal. We got stuck in traffic for about an hour over the Hoover Dam, this is the main route between Phoenix and Las Vegas and the only way to cross the Colorado River for 500 miles.

We got back to the hostel at 19.00. The hostel was running a limo tour down the strip tonight for $20.00, including entry into a couple of the night clubs. Mark and I opted out and decided to get in a couple of beers and hit the strip ourselves. I bought 2 40oz bottles of beer, downed them in no time and then headed out.

I've no idea what happened, but the next thing I remember was falling down on the strip, Mark throwing me in a cab and somehow getting back to the hostel, where I was sick as a dog.  Must have been the excitement!

Friday 28th November 2003, Day 76/273 - Las Vegas, Nevada

I walked up Fremont Street to experience the Fremont Street Experience. It's an experience just getting passed all the weirdo's. They all want to talk to you. I've learnt, after nearly 11 weeks in the States, the tactic of avoiding eye contact and just ignoring them. Always walk with a purpose and stick to the main streets.

As for the actual experience, it was pretty tacky. There's a few nice casinos like the Golden Nugget and Fitzgeralds, but they pale into insignificance when compared to the casinos on the strip. Fremont Street is the home to famous Vegas cowboy and cowgirl signs. Apparently the LED display is really good.




At least I returned to the hostel up. My $4.50 may not have broken the casinos banks, but it did pay for my breakfast.

When I got back to the hostel there was a nice guy called Mark there who has been travelling the States and has just arrived in Vegas. He made a nice change from the other muppets in the dorm like the porn king from New York, who claims to have been in Melbourne, Australia working as general manager in a strip club. I felt like saying 'Why are you staying in a hostel then?', but bit my tongue as he was built like a brick shit house. There's matey from Denver who's 45 and trying to be 18 again. Or the Japanese guys with long black hair who keep leaving their hair in the plug hole.

The lure of the strip was to much for me and I offered to show Mark (and Kurt) the strip. I'm glad I went back because I saw lots of things that I missed the first 2 times. In truth you could always find something new in Vegas.

In Circus Circus there is the largest indoor theme park in the world. It's bizarre. It's complete with roller coaster and magic carpet.

At Treasure Island we watched the 2 ships battle it out. This free show occurs 3 times a night, at 6, 8 & 10 and is amazingly pointless, but so impressive.







At the Mirage we watched the Volcano erupt as it does every 15 minutes after dusk.

Outside Bellagio they have a water show that is sychronized to classical music. I've never seen anything like it. It was amazing.

I was also offered drugs for the first time in America.

I know I said it wasn't busy the other day, well today it is manic. I guess with it being the weekend and thanksgiving then everyone has come for some Vegas action. With all the extra people the minimums on the tables go up. It's impossible to find a table in the lower part of the strip with a minimum of less than $25.

In the end we found a table in the Sahara and played blackjack for $5 a go. For about 2 hours I did well, not being up or down, but playing with $40. I was enjoying the free drinks (all free if you're gambling) served by the waitresses in skimpy outfits. After 2 hours my luck and my hands changed and I ran out of cash. I foolishly withdrew some more money from the handily placed ATM (right by the exit) at 1.56 am. By 2.11 when we left I had lost $100. I lost 21 hands out of 22. That's how quickly it can go.

We decided to walk home, not being able to afford a taxi. As we turned onto Fremont Street we met a weirdo. It was a guy who spoke just like Forrest Gump. He said 'Can you spare 53c'. For some reason all the vagrants in Vegas ask for exact amounts. We ignored him and continued. He then said "I've got some doughnut left. I can give you some of my doughnut. I am a doughnut." We carried on our way. We didn't take up his offer, tempting as it was.

Eventually we got to bed at 4.00. Not good considering we've got to be up at 7.00 to go to the Grand Canyon.

Thursday 27th November 2003, Day 75/273 - Las Vegas, Nevada

Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

Having slept for 12 hours I headed out after I'd had a $20 punt to try and win a Dodge Viper. Of course, I didn't win.

Thanksgiving doesn't change much in Vegas. All the casinos are still open. It's pretty much the same as Boxing Day back home. The sales in the shops start and it's quite a big sports day. I think we're giving thanks for just being American. It beats me, but I'll go with it. It's always on the 4th Thursday in November and is a public holiday, so a traditional long weekend for families to get together and stuff themselves with turkey. I had a tradional American breakfast of a Sausage and Egg McMuffin meal.

Vegas hasn't been as busy as I imagined it would be. I'm now off to the hostel, which is a little off the strip at 1322 Fremont Street, to chill out. I'm glad to be off the strip. It's truly an amazing place, but totally exhausting. On the walk up to the hostel I passed all the wedding chapels including a drive through one.







Fremont Street is downtown Vegas and where the initial casinos started. There is the Fremont Street Experience, but the hostel is a good 10-15 minute walk from that. As you get further away from the centre all the weirdos become more obvious. It's full of seedy little motels and not a particularly nice area of town. The hostel itself is nice. It's a big one set in a former seedy motel and has everything you need, including a cheap bar. It's full of youngsters looking to party. I prefer the smaller more homely hostels, but at $15 a night I mustn't grumble. It also the only hostel in Vegas. I'm not sure about 13 players on the foosball table.